On Jan 28, 6:06 pm, zxcvbob wrote:
Coloradotrout wrote:
I may have confused this a bit.

The copper from the house is 3/4". So I need to go from 3/4" Cu pipe to
3/4" pvc.

So I think Jim's point was..

3/4" Cu mainline | Cu repair coupling | 3/4" Cu pipe (length cut to fit, or
use soft and make S or U shape) | female Cu adapter | male pvc adapter |
3/4" pvc

All the above are 3/4" pipes and fittings.

It looks like you were thinking I had a 1" Cu pipe from the house. The
original had a 1" female adapter brazed to the 3/4" line. Then a brass 1"
male to 3/4" male (threads both ends, the 1" end had a compression-like
fitting to that 1" female adapter), then a 3/4" pvc female, then the 3/4"
pvc pipe. There were all RH threads, so it was assembled sequentially.
Can't do that now ;-)

It's probably best to cut off that initial fitting and use the repair
coupling. At least that is my thought.

I do like the idea of a short run of flex copper.I thought you had 1" from the house, joined to 3/4" from the meter.
Make sure the flex copper (you mean soft "L" copper tubing, or flex like a
gas line?) is OK for direct burial. The flexible section needs to be bent
into a snake or something. If it's perfectly straight, it can't provide
the necessary slack if it needs to stretch.

Best regards,
Bob


I don't think I'm following the thread very well but ......

I would suggest doing all the repairs in PVC.

The best is a male PVC thread into a female copper fitting, if I read
everything correctly you have a threaded female copper fitting in the
mix somewhere.

If you have enough PVC exposed you can bend it out of the ways such
that you can use a PVC slip (glue coupling to make the lsat PVC
connected.

File out the stop in the PVC coupling such that it slide all the way
passed the end of the pipe when glue is applied

Gotta work fast.......

prime both ends of the PVC to be joined AND the coupling
slather up the pipe ends w/ glue, then the coupling then a quick
recoat on the pipes
slid the coupling on passed one pipe
align the pipe, slid the coupling to center position & give it a1/4
twist to smear glue

like I said, you gotta work fast!
no margin for error.....but you can always cut it out

If you've never done one of these I suggest a practice run with scrap
material.

I'd insulate the hole...a couple layers of cardboard or burlap will
work but I'd add a 100 watt light bulb to the hole since you're gonna
get down into the teens.

cheers
Bob

cheers