I may have confused this a bit.

The copper from the house is 3/4". So I need to go from 3/4" Cu pipe to
3/4" pvc.

So I think Jim's point was..

3/4" Cu mainline | Cu repair coupling | 3/4" Cu pipe (length cut to fit, or
use soft and make S or U shape) | female Cu adapter | male pvc adapter |
3/4" pvc

All the above are 3/4" pipes and fittings.

It looks like you were thinking I had a 1" Cu pipe from the house. The
original had a 1" female adapter brazed to the 3/4" line. Then a brass 1"
male to 3/4" male (threads both ends, the 1" end had a compression-like
fitting to that 1" female adapter), then a 3/4" pvc female, then the 3/4"
pvc pipe. There were all RH threads, so it was assembled sequentially.
Can't do that now ;-)

It's probably best to cut off that initial fitting and use the repair
coupling. At least that is my thought.

I do like the idea of a short run of flex copper.


"zxcvbob" wrote in message
...
Coloradotrout wrote:
I have a 15 year-old home.

Water line between street(meter) and home was leaking (line is about 60
feet).

A large sinkhole developed. I dug down 7' to find the solid copper line
from the house joined to PVC. The connection was as follows.

3/4" copper line from house (10') -- brazed to 1" female
connector -- 1"
male nipple w/ threads to 3/4" male threaded fitting (solid brass) --
PVC
3/4" female thread to 3/4" slip -- 3/4" pvc pipe

The PVC slip connector sheared off. All of these are RH threads, and no
unions. So it all had to be assembled sequentially.

How do I fix this? The right solution in my mind is to run a new trench
and
lay continuous copper. I don't believe that is feasible. We are
looking to
spend another 1-2 years here. But I hate leaving anyone a problem
waiting
to happen. Going to Lowes/HD, the best I can come up with is:

3/4" copper line from house -- 3/4" union -- short copper pipe --
3/4"
male thread adapter -- 3/4" PVC female thread adapter to slip -- pvc
pipe

The original solution was 4 joints. The above is 6. Thoughts?
(would a
3/4" female adapter -- 3/4" male pvc to slip be better)

I can do basic sweating of copper. But I've never brazed. Should my
copper
joints be brazed?

Thoughts? Ideas? Volunteers (just kidding.. at least half way)






Cut off a 3" piece of the copper pipe to use as a nipple, and cut off the
broken PVC fitting. Buy a section of 1" PVC pipe, a 1" copper FIP
fitting,
a 1" copper repair coupling, a 1x3/4" PVC reducer coupling, and a 1" MIP
fitting.

1" copper pipe - repair coupling - copper nipple (cut from the copper
pipe) - copper FIP - PVC 1" MIP - short 1" PVC pipe - PVC reducer
coupling - 3/4" PVC pipe. Connect the copper repair coupling last. ;-)

Regular lead-free solder should be just fine. Use purple primer on the
PVC
glue joints.

If you are paranoid, buy some soft copper (like Jim said) make a loop or
an
S and use that instead of the short copper nipple and the long PVC nipple,
so it can expand and contract without stressing the PVC joints.

I'll bet this could also be done neatly with soft copper and a flare
fitting instead of the repair coupling.

Best regards,
Bob