"Dave Curtis" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 26 Jan 2007 10:33:00 -0600, "Elvis Kabong"
wrote:


"Dave Curtis" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 24 Jan 2007 15:34:44 -0000, "N Cook"
wrote:

High power combos that go intermittant
after a period of use.

If they use
an elbow jack on the amp to speaker link ,
replace with conventional, if poor manufacture.
Check the internal construction and if
poor mechanical connection at the elbow means
the shaft can turn , with pliers , when cold,
so a resistance and voltage drop, heating the plastic
disc that is all that forces a mechanical connection.

You must be talking about the really cheap ones. I usually do a little
extra soldering on the ones I've used so it's not just a mechanical
connection anymore.

So progressively worsens, so when heated by the current,
in use, the shaft will turn with finger pressure only
rather than requiring pliers.

Not if you do it right.

Also, If you put a straight jack on say, an old Fender combo, you
better unplug it before you lay it on its back in the mini-van...

PS: It's called a right-angle jack. And if you're running enough
current through it to heat it up, you might want to consider Speak-ons
anyway.

-Dave

Dave, I think he's talking about the right angle plug #228 Switchcraft or
the even worse #220 which do really suck and can be easily damaged
and become loose enough to be intermittent. The Switchcraft #226 is
much more superior in design and reliability.

I thought he was talking even cheaper (RS/china), which is why I
mentioned soldering the compression connection. I've done that to fix
a spinning tip connection. You need a hot iron and do it quick.

Yes, we both meant 'plug'.

BTW, I seen (real) cheap straight jacks where the tip or sleeve would
spin...

How's Amps, Ed?

I've got an intermittent Randall with a(nother) glued-on back, a
2X50watt Marshall to bias, and a sick MusicMan... CYA!

I need more benches!
(actually, I just need to clean a few more off ;o)

-Dave

Sheeks Dave, you *would* have to ask. Here's the rundown:

Just finished doing all I can do with a Marshall Model 2000 250watt lead head
that I think the owner stressed the OT years ago by sticking 20amp automotive
fuses for the external fuse holders even though there is at least an internal fuse
to blow in case of that idiocy. Not only that and even though EL34s can handle
the B+ the customer doesn't want to pay to have 6550s in it. But what happens
every now and then, the protection diodes short and blows the mains fuse.
I keep telling him this is going to happen when he cranks it since the OT seems
out of whack. On the primary, I'm getting 57mH on one side and 68mH on the other.
The output signal looks wacky too. What a shame. The amp is rare and the owner
went and abused it. Can you imagine how much Mercury Magnetics would charge
to rebuild the OT?

Also restoring a BF Twin Reverb head that was under water during Katrina.
The fiberboard was like a roller coaster so I'm having to replace it with a
Mojo one. Reinstalling all of the blue Moldeds and any resistors not out of
tolerance and any pots that still turn. Took the PT apart to let it dry out and
found that it had some sort of tar substance in it which means to me it must
be waterproof, so I'm assuming all of the transformers are ok, that is until
I fire it up once finished reassembling.

Just finished the HOSE amp version 1 (High Output Single Ended).
High B+, switchable to 5AR4 or 5U4, one 6550 and two paralleled
12AX7s with gain, master and treb, mid, bass controls. Got it up
to 17 watts even though the OT specifies 15 watts.

Just starting HOSE version 2: low output SE amp into an interstage
transformer to a pair of EL34s. Hope I can get that wonderful tone
of an SE amp preserved and amplified into a push-pull output to
be loud enough for bigger gigs and not having to mic for a gig.
Might turn out to be the best of both worlds - that sweet SE tone,
yet loud enough to gig with and with more than just having a single
tone pot. Considering installing a low output OT to also a low watt
speaker for the practice amp/studio volume of a just a SE amp
and making it switchable to either that or to the interstage transformer.

Soon there will be pics on Dave Moore's website. That's still in process.

Have fun,

Ed