"Straight" fingers won't have any flex. You might as well just clamp a board
there. The flex is necessary to account for minute changes in thickness of
your work, in addition to providing resistance to kick back.

--
Charley


"HotRod" wrote in message
...
Glad someone mentioned cutting the feathers on an angle, I probably would
have forgot. I was hoping to make a fingerboard that could be mounted in
the
middle of the planer and then used on both sides. In order to do this the
fingers would need to be straight, not cut on an angle, what do you think?
Do they need to be angled? I'm not to worried about kick back.

P.S. I didn't end up ordering the Woodmaster molder, I ended up getting a
25" dual drum sander and planner/molder for the same price as the
woodmaster. That saves me from constantly changing the drums and the stuff
I
bought is really industrial. I ended up with a Powermatic PM15 / 5hp. I
made
the bed board out of some great / slippery stuff that we had in the
shop...


"HotRod" wrote in message
...
I need to make a 27" long feather board for use with my planner/molder
and
was wondering if someone could tell what wood is the best? Do I need to
cut
into the grain length or can I cut across it?