Roger Mills wrote:

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
John Rumm wrote:


Used like above, you would also be able to use a reciprocating[1] saw
with a long (9-12") wood cutting blade. [1]
http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/recipsaw.htm


Have you actually *read* this faq? Among other things, it says:

I wrote it, does that count? ;-)

"Typically, reciprocating saws do not have a great amount of finesse, but
they are well suited to fast and crude cutting (think in terms of a somewhat
safer alternative to a chainsaw rather than an electric version of a tennon
saw!). As a result and they are more likely to find applications in
demolition work than they are in fine cabinet making!"

Perhaps there should be a caveate there. The lack of precision and
accuracy is a result of there (usually) being no mechanism to guide the
blade. In this case however, you would be using a bit of flooring to set
the exact cut position. As I said in my original post, it would not be
usually be my tool of choice, however it does have the advantage of
being it only meathod I can think of that would cope well with a jamb
that is nailed to the floor.

You will note it also says (under example uses):

"Freeing a door frame upright from the floor that it was skew-nailed to,
when the nails were fully home and the frame was held firm above. Using
the flexibility of a 9" blade to enable a cut to be made flush with the
floor, under the jamb." - this was not a line I invented, but an
anecdote from someone who had done this.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/