Doug Miller wrote:
In article om, wrote:
....
I assume you mean a GFCI *outlet*... Deeper boxes do exist, and they're
frequently used in new construction, particularly where GFCIs are required.
....
wire it was better to terminate it on the screw, rather
than using the clamp.
True. It's *much* more secure.
Note that for aluminum wire, the clamp isn't even an option: you *must* use
the screw.
But (and I am asking this mostly for the lurkers) surely only with
a proper (rated for aluminum) terminator on the wire. You are NOT
allowed to use bare aluminum wire under a brass screw, that is
a sure fire (no pun intended) recipe for disaster, right?
... Grab
it with the tip of a needlenose pliers and twist. Or use an electrician's
stripper-crimper tool (e.g. Gardner-Bender GS-70) -- most have a hole about
1/8" in diameter in one of the jaws, specifically for making such hooks. Stick
the wire through the hole, twist the tool 180 degrees, and voila! a perfect
hook.
OK that'd work but then the heads of the screws would stand
proud and the fixture would not fit back in the box. The GFCI
(thank you) protects two 'downstream' circuits. Looks like
one of those larger boxes is called for. And for a fumble
fingers like myself, lugs.
Is it acceptable to use crimped
lugs, with two lugs on the same screw?
Yes, if the lugs are rated for 120V *and* the device is rated for two lugs. Of
course, you could use one wire in a lug as a pigtail, and wire-nut it to as
many other wires as needed.
When I rewire my home, which is currently a *******
mix of romex and knob and tube, I intend, wherever possible,
to avoid both 'pass through' and splices behind the outlets,
feeding them from separate junction boxes in the attic or
crawlspace.
It is downright scary to discover that turning the lights on in
my dining room causes an (unused) upstairs bedroom outlet
to become hot to the touch.
But, as Mr Hodgett so diplomatically suggests, I've a lot
to learn first.
--
FF