Aren't we sidetracked here? The question is not heat or friction, but what
delivers the best looking piece of work.

My experience is that when I slow down the work, it looks better after I
sand it. Not exactly sure why, but it does. I have fewer deep scratches,
and better control so I don't sand off the sharp details. And high speed
sanding on softwood face turning, is a guarantee to ripples because the
softer summer wood is removed, leaving the harder spring wood (?).

Also it doesn't throw the dust as far, and the feel of the project is less
frantic--like I'm in control, not the machine.

My $.02

Old Guy


"Owen Lowe" wrote in message
news
In article ,
"Salmo" wrote:

Thanks..I sand at the last speed I used while turning and have yet to
change
the speed to slow. The wood doesn't get hot because I don't keep the
paper
there long enough to burn as I'm changing from
100-120-180-220-320-400-800
until a sheen shows. ...

The cloth piece behind the sandpaper really does do the trick. I'll try
the
slower speed anyway just to compare the finish difference (or non
difference).

On some woods, you can cause heat checks in the end grain from
overheating. My rule is that if it's too hot to continue sanding, then
slow it down.

Years ago, a regular to this group, Lyn Mangiameli, discussed slow speed
sanding. After I tried it I was a convert - I now rarely sand above 500
rpm - and oftentimes it's much slower depending on the work diameter.
I'll see if I can look up the thread and post the link.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Tips fer Turnin': Place a sign, easily seen as you switch on your lathe,
warning you to remove any and all rings from your fingers. Called
degloving, extended hardware can grab your ring and rip it off your
finger. A pic for the strong of stomach:
www.itim.nsw.gov.au/go/objectid/2A3AC703-1321-1C29-70B067DC88E16BFC/index.cfm

Besides, rings can easily mar the surface of a turning as you check for
finished smoothness.