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Ben Bullock Ben Bullock is offline
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Default Rip sawing photographic misadventures


"John Grossbohlin" wrote in message
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"Ben Bullock" wrote in message
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I'm trying to learn rip sawing with a hand saw. I took a few photos, and
I'd appreciate any input.

http://flickr.com/photos/bnz/sets/72157594441220214/


I don't understand the "most efficient cutting angle" shown at all. From
my own experience, reading, and watching a proficient Japanese woodworker
rip a large thick board, I believe you would be better off laying the
blade about 90 degrees in the other direction.


After reading your message, I tried another test cut using the flat angle
you suggest and the angle I "discovered". I'm sure I'm doing something
stupid, but when I put it at the flatter angle and pull towards me, I keep
getting a kind of juddering as if the saw is popping up and not cutting very
well, and the cut is much slower and more difficult. When I put it at the
angle I showed in the picture and pull from behind the direction of cut, it
seems to glide through the wood very easily. The other respondent,
RicodJour, suggested that using the tools from the bottom is best, which
kind of squares with that experience, doesn't it?

The photos suggest you would be standing to the right end of the board
while actually sawing. If so you are trying to pull the saw up into the
wood from below and push it away from yourself.

If you flip the angle of the saw as I suggest above, and stand to the left
end of the board you will enjoy an easier task and likely attain good
results quicker. This as you would be pulling the saw up and towards you
on the cutting stroke. Also, laying the blade down in the cut will help
you stay on the line by increasing the amount of blade length in the wood
(this is much like how a long plane straightens an edge easier than a
short plane).


That does make sense of course, so I'll keep experimenting with this.

Regarding keeping the cut square to the face, putting a try square on the
board with the blade sticking up will give you a visual guide. After a
while you will develop a feel for it and will not need the try square.


Thanks for the tip.

Regarding the scratches on the cut face, it is important to keep in mind
that you should be ripping just a bit wider than the desired finished
width and then plane the edge flat, square, and to final dimension. The
amount of "a bit wider" needed will decrease as you become more
proficient. See the photos I posted under Sloyd in Action in ABPW.


Unfortunately I can't pick up that. Have you thought of using flickr or
photobucket etc? I think it's easier.

My boys can stay within about 1/16" of the line at this point and the
younger one has split a pencil line on cross cuts... With each project
their skills grown and I'm sure you will have a similar experience if you
are studious about the process.


Sounds like you are a good sawing teacher. I'll keep trying to improve on
test samples until things start looking better.

Thanks!