On Sun, 17 Dec 2006 14:07:56 -0600, "DanG" wrote:

I think I remember suggesting a dry diamond wheel on a circular
saw

Too big, clumsy.

or an offset grinder back in the kitchen. They will make
dust - wear a dust mask and safety glasses, isolate the space you
are in with visqueen, clean up the mess when you are finished.
What did you end up doing to repair the hole after you completed
the pipe repair???

Hole was maybe 4" x 12". Very carefully fitted a 1-by -into-
the hole, cut a larger piece of baltic birch plywood to
cover hole and adjacent damage to tile, routed edges smooth,
painted with Kilz to match tile, and attached a little handle.

A reciprocating saw is an excellent tool. I believe in Milwaukee,
but they are pricey for home use.

A Milwaukee would outlive po' me by a factor of maybe 9. :-)

They make a plaster/nail
cutting blade, a carborundum blade (slow), and a dry diamond blade
($40ish). The jerking action of a reciprocating blade can loosen
a lot more plaster than you originally planned.

For your application I would recommend a cheap, harbor freight
type offset grinder ($10ish when on super sale) with an assortment
of wheels that include weld cutting disc(s), grinding disc(s),
flap wheel (for dressing steel), a wire brush or two(both cup and
straight), and a dry diamond ($5ish on super sale). The dry
diamond may smoke and burn a bit on it's way through wood lath,
but it will work; no problem with metal lath.

They also sell dry diamond blades for 7 1/4" circle saws ($10ish).
The first ones I bought were just short of $100, now down to about
$50: but I have heard such good things about the Harbor Freight
blades, I'm going to try them.

If your tub plumbing backs up to a closet or inconspicuous place,
plan on creating a permanent access panel at the back of the tub
with a screwed on panel that is trimmed out with door casing.

I screwed up the description: it's the lav drain, not the tub.
Yeah, a removable panel will go in the hole.

I know where the local harbor freight store is, haven't been
there yet.

Harbor freight stuff is Chinee? Anybody got an idea how long
it'd last with infrequent use?

Much thanks,
Puddin'

"Puddin' Man" wrote in message
.. .


'allo,

I belong to a little brick bungalow in the midwest, built in
'54, old-style plaster on steel mesh lath.

Recently found that kitchen and both drain pipes were sealed
behind wall. Had to bust thru kitchen wall (tile and plaster)
to replace drain pipe.

I found that the "plaster" was more the consistency and hardness
of concrete than any plaster I seen before ...

The bath drain is overdue to roll over and die. The drain is
in a partition wall opposite a bedroom closet. To gain
access, I'd likely need to cut a large section of the
closet wall out.

It's actually strange I've never bought a sawzall, but
I've always got along with a little scroll-jig saw. Have
built partition walls but never needed to rip thru old
walls, chop thru roof, etc.

Anybody familiar with cutting the old style plaster?

Q1: Can I do it with a sawzall? If so what blade? Recall
this "plaster" looks more like flogging concrete.

Q2: If Q1 = yes, would an 8 amp sawzall likely be adequate?

Q3: If Q1 = no, what should I use? Used a hammer/cold-chisel
on the kitchen and it was a SEVERE PITA!

Any/all info/advice much appreciated.

Cheers,
Puddin'


Pease pudding hot,
Pease pudding cold,
Pease pudding in the pot
Nine days old ...