Amy L wrote:
I have a couple of questions for those who went down this path.

I am interested in purchasing a generator for "emergency" situations. I am
looking for something that is strong enough that could power the heater,
sump pump, Fridge, etc (also, it does not need to do this all at once). I
am also looking for something that has 240 out in addition to 120 so I can
backfeed the house.

1.) What are the good brands of generators?
2.) Is there anything I should specifically look for in a generator
(warranty, serviceability, reliability, gas efficiency)?
3.) Would you ever purchase one online? If so what site have you used or
heard of other using with good success?

Amy.

Hi Amy,

I live in the NorthEast and last year went through 5 days without
power. A tree knocked out the power lines. No water (we are on a well)
and no heat. After the recovery we had burst pipes and mashed HVAC
units. All the copper coils were broken.

One way of looking at the generator and instalation is cost pricing
points. I sort of think of three price breakdowns:

1) Gasoline powered portable units $US 700 to about $US 2700 for Honda
i7000AB
then add maybe $1,000 for a transfer switch and professional
electrician to install
and hookup.
2) Fixed units up to the 12Kw range. e.g. Generacs from home depot.
These are essentially
air cooled lawn mower type engines, running at 3,600 rpm. They cost
about $US 2,700 to $US 3,500 for the unit and maybe $US 2,000 to $US
3,000 for transfer switch and installation. I was quoted $US 11,000 for
one here in New York. But I needed quite a bit done. The units are
liftable by 4 men, and they can be installed on gravel foundations,
saving cost in avoiding concrete foundations (local building code
dependent).
3) Fixed units 15Kw and up, runs at 1,800 rpm, water cooled with oil
filter. These units are based on car / truck engines. Cost is about $US
8,000 to $US 14,000 with installation at about $US 8,000 and up. There
is a sigificant jump between this and type 2 mainly because of weight.
You will need a concrete pad and a back-hoe type machine to life the
generator which weighs about 1,200 lbs and up.

Most people I know around me went for type 2. I have a type 3
installation. I bought the generator from Costco, an older model
Cummins Onan RS2000 about a year ago. The cost of the generator was $US
9,000 including a 200 AMP automatic transfer switch. Total cost was $US
21,000. I also had a 400 gallon propane tank installed. My units burns
though about 3 gallons of propane per hour.

The unit I have is quite nice in that it is quieter than other units,
will power up my central AC and about 50% of my house. I have well
pump, ejector pump, furnace, fridge, HVAC air handlers, centeral air
and lighting circuits connected up. Big power users such as double
ovens and dryer are not connected. In case of a power outage everything
is automatic and lights come back on in 20 seconds. The generator is
keeped warm all year long with its own thermostatically controlled
water heater.

I also know alot of people who have type 1 installation because of
cost. This is a good way to go if you are prepared for some work
arounds.

a) You need to have alot of gasoline stored. In may area a 20 gallon
limit is enforced due to fire hazard. You need to put in a fuel
stabilizer such as STABIL (Home Depot), and refresh your gasoline stock
every autumn. I think 20 gallons will give you approx 24 hours constant
run time on a portable unit.

b) You need to have a good place to put your generator while it is
running. This has to be outside because of carbon monoxide poisioning
risks to you and some distance say 5 feet from your house because of
fire risk. The place needs to be sheltered from wind, snow and falling
tree limbs. This is because you do not want your power outlets on your
portable generator to get wet, and possibly electicute you if you touch
it by accident.

c) You need to be prepared to refill your power generator with gasoline
every five hours or so. Be careful because a hot generator and gasoline
poses a fire risk. Keep you generator therefore some distance from your
house. If you have 5 gallon plastic gas tanks, it may be easier to have
a small hand pump. 5 gallons of gas is quite heavy, and most generator
fill caps are on top of the generator, hence you need to lift the gas
to that height.

d) Although back feeding your house can be done via a "Suicide power
cord". It is dangerours and is illegal. There is a risk to you and to
utility repair people. You can avoid having a transfer switch if you
are prepared to have long extension cords snaking around your house and
connect appliances directly to your generator.

I think the best solution for you will depend on who is in your
familly. If you have older / younger (children) people who cannot move
around portable units then a type 2 or type 3 is recomended. If you
have younger people around who understand and are prepared to move
about gasoline, and wheel abnout generators, then type 1 solution is a
good way to go.

Warmest regards, Mike.