"cad" wrote in message
ups.com...
Once you have your work mounted on the jaws, and it is turning
perfectly round, mark the bowl right next to a mark on your jaw. This
will give you a reference so that if you have to dismount your bowl you
can remount it at the same spot you had it before reducing the chance
of mounting it out of round the next time.

Oddly,the chief advantage to the smooth jaws is they _must_ mount true. They
have no other choice if you keep the mating surfaces clean and undamaged.
Any place around the inside of the mortise or the outside of the tenon is
equal to any other. If the first attempt on a reverse or remount doesn't
rotate true, I consider it a clue that I have a shaving or something
captured, and re-check. Not all that unusual that I use the recess or
groove that that forms the bottom to re-mount a bowl whose finish I'm not
satisfied with for shaving off the old finish to try again. Some get pretty
thin, but by not eliminating my mount, I still have the capability. That's
where I use the power-grip jaws the most, in scribed and perhaps burned
rings which form the reveal at the bottom of a bowl. By turning them a close
match, I get a second chance. Do hate having to work around the tailstock
for the back, but it's doable.

Do your jaws meet flush on the front? That and using your tailstock as a
bumper/clamp on the inside of an already turned bowl.

I've got one of the NOVA live centers which allows me to screw on tapered
disks to wedge and center where I can't extend the quill all the way to the
bottom.