paragon66x wrote:
Mark D. Zacharias wrote:

If the fuses are really good, this is a bad sign, given what you
have said about using the 12 to 120 converter. Possibly a bad power
transformer.
With the receiver unplugged, use your DMM to measure resistance
(ohms) at the AC switched outlet on the rear panel. This outlet
directly parallels the main transformer primary. If the transformer
primary is OK, and there are no blown fuses or other open circuit,
then the resistance should be very low, probably less than 1 ohm,
since it is a large transformer. If it's in the 100 ohm range or
greater, you are measuring only the primary of the standby
transformer, and the main transformer may be bad. Possibly a thermal
fuse opened inside the transformer.


Mark Z.

Hi Mark - there is no switched outlet in the back of the stereo. It
has the main plug hard-wired in and various jacks for speakers and
what not, but no other place for any AC plug to go into. This is one
of the "mini-stereos" with the CD player, cassettes, etc, all in one
self contained unit.

I do currently have the main cover off and notice when you plug it in,
it makes the "normal" click after a couple of seconds (at least I
think that is normal), and one of the belt drives on a cassette motor
jogs forward for a split second. After that, the light to the main
power button LED is lit red, but the power to the system will not
come on. With that said, what else do you recommend? Thanks - John

If it seems to turn on normally, with the speaker relay coming on after the
usual delay, and just no display, there is a chance that only the -30 volt
line for the display is down (or some other section of the power supply).
There is a 100 ohm fusible resistor on the power board, R901, near the large
connector which goes to the main board. This resistor could be bad.

There is also a separate fuse board, and there could be bad fuses there -
don't recall if you said you had checked those.


Mark Z.