wrote:


The question is whats the wall made of above the window where you'll
drill. It looks from the first pic like a sloping ceiling, in which
case its probably weak hollow PlasterBoard. Tap it, does it sounds
solid or hollow?

(Thanks for the advice by the way)

Yes - when i tap it , it sounds hollow (must be plasterboard) (so no
drill needed)

A drill is still needed! You must have a perfect hole of exactly the
right diameter to take the plasterboard fixing. This is normally 10mm so
you'll have to fill and re-paint the holes when you come to leave.

unscrewing the existing curtain rails - will they already have toggle
fixings? could I do damage by unscrewing them? Please see this photo:

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/DSC00046.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/DSC00045.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/DSC00044.jpg


Just looked in argos for 'toggle fixings' - do I need to use them to
screw into plasterboard (will it damage it otherwise)

Depends how much space there is behind the plasterboard. Toggles need
more than the plastic plugs with wings.

(If I can't buy it in John Lewis/Selfridges etc. I'll obv need go to
Homebase or B&Q)


where you want it. To keep out light it'll need to hang close against
the wall, not spaced away from it.

How about within the window recess (as far away from the glass as
possible - ie. next to the inside wall). I guess that would be
difficult/awkward to fit - due to confined space. But it would mean I
wouldn't have to remove the existing curtain rail (& curtains)

^ is the above paragraph a really dumb idea?

It's all really dumb if you ask me. Use curtains and save yourself a lot
of (unpredictable) hassle



Thanks again the help. I really appreciate it.