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Harold & Susan Vordos
 
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Default 2nd day of Metal working class...grinding cutting tools


"DejaVU" wrote in message
...
Harold & Susan Vordos scribed in
:

good idea when you have the necessary clearance. I hand grind
parting tools from 1/2" square HSS. Think of the amount of stock
that gets removed! It's a sad moment when I break a new one when
parting, and it does happen. :-(


Harold, have you tried an angle grinder for the roughing when you're
taking so much off? I'd go with a 4.5" wheel, 1mm thick. that's the
fastest cutting wheel you'll ever use as it has to remove so little
metal to do it. The ones I have now are 1.6mm, is that 1/16"?
also nice, but the 1mm is faster.

in fact, within a day or two I'll be using mine to modify a 2 flute
endmill (homemade from O1 toolsteel) that needs to cut a little
deeper. I'll be keeping it cool so I don't need to reharden and
resharpen as it is the right size right now.

swarf, steam and wind

--
David Forsyth -:- the email address is real /"\


I haven't done so, but understand the speed they move metal quite well. I'd
be a bit caution about roughing parting or grooving tools because of the
rough grinding, though.. It's not all that difficult to break the blade off
the shank due to the slender, long remaining piece, but the angle grinder
would surely be good to get rid of a lot of material. Your point,
however, is exactly mine in parting on a cutter grinder. That I have done,
time and again. Because the tool and wheel are both rigidly held, no
vibration, and fed at the proper angle, there is little risk of anything
breaking. You can honestly slit a 1/2" square toolbit 1" deep faster than
you can reset the bit to cut at 90 degrees to remove the portion you split.
Narrow wheels, when properly applied, cut at an astonishing rate.

Harold