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Pete C. Pete C. is offline
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Default Hints for choosing generator for new home Gen Interlock setup

Toller wrote:

"Pete C." wrote in message
...
Doug Miller wrote:

In article , "Pete C."
wrote:
Toller wrote:

The real small units are 120V only, a normal transfer switch /
interlock
really needs a 240V feed. A small unit like a Honda EU2000i would
handle
a refrigerator and a light plugged into it, but is unlikely to
handle a
furnace or other larger loads.

I could have sworn it ran my furnace for 5 days two years ago, as well
as my
refrigerator and freezer.

It may have depending on what you have for a furnace. In many cases it
won't.

And in many cases it will -- really, the only cases in which it won't are
electric furnaces or heat pumps. The electrical demands of oil- or
gas-fired
forced-air furnaces are quite modest, and those of hot-water systems are
even
lower. A typical refrigerator requires much more power than a typical gas
furnace.


Remember, the EU2000i is rated 1,600VA continuous and 2,000VA for 30 min
max. In order to handle many of those furnaces you'd need to do load
management so the furnace was the only load at the time.

What is it with you? I ran them all for 5 days simultaneously, stopping to
put gas in once a day. Thats it; no load management, nothing. And I had
spare capacity for a few lights, my computer, or the television. Furnaces
just don't use much current.

Had the refrigerator and freezer chosen to start at the same time the
generator would have stopped to prevent an overload, but it didn't happen
and wasn't likely.


What's with me is I properly size the generator to the load and / or
practice load management. I don't rely on fault protective devices to to
cover for poor design and management.

Pete C.