"Paul" wrote in message
...

"Harold & Susan Vordos" wrote in message
...
snip
I wish I could picture them (chip braeakers) in my head at this point I've
seen a cutting
tool all of about
5 times. So might take some time to really know what I'm supposed to be
picturing
But I know I'll get there! Chip breaker? Haven't got that far yet. 3rd
night
is coming up
tomorrow so we will see.

Don't get in a hurry with them, either. Get to know and understand how to
grind a tool, and why it cuts. Once you do, grinding chip breakers is sort
of a natural. You'll want to control how the chip comes off the machine,
and in many instances improve the ability of the machine to make the chip.
Chip breakers that are ground by hand are generally accomplished by creating
positive rake, so they tend to cut better than normal cutting tools with
similar geometry. One of the best kept secrets in machining tough
materials (stainless comes to mind) is how generous positive rake can be
useful. You have to modify how you cut and feed, but it has a place and
often increases production. The method I use tends to defy logic, and is
not the most conventional approach, but it works, and well. It's more
than you need to know at this point, best discussed when you are comfortable
with cutting geometry and can visualize tools in your mind.

If you feel you're capable of making a nice project, what I'd recommend
is
you make an arbor that fits the shaft of the motor that will accept 7" X
1/2" X 1-1/4" grinding wheels. They are likely the most abundant wheel
on
the market because of their use on surface and cutter grinders. You
can
buy them easily off ebay for a good price if you're patient. By placing
set
screws in two places at 120 degree intervals around the arbor, you can
make
one that is fully adjustable on the motor shaft so it can be adjusted to
run dead true. Your motor runs a perfect speed for 7" wheels, and they
are
much easier to use to grind toolbits than are smaller diameter wheels.

My grinder has a 1/2 inch arbor and is big enough to handle a 7 inch
wheel...

You'd still want to make an adapter arbor, it gets the wheel away from the
motor so you can manipulate your work better, and it opens the door to a
MUCH greater variety of grinding wheels. One of the smartest things you can
do for tool grinding is get away from small wheels, and away from wheels
that are typically offered for grinding. Cutter grinder wheels are very
accurately made and controlled and are available in a myriad of hardnesses
and abrasive types. In addition, they are inexpensive when you shop. We
can talk about that more if you're interested.

even though the name plate says 6". OH and it does have a pass thru arbor
so should I put a "diamond" wheel on the other side? And what grit should
I
be using on the main side?

See below.

Currently my ginder is mounted on my work bench
oppsite end of my vise at about waist level.

Tough on the back when grinding for long periods. Much more effective built
higher..

Your grinder may be a great candidate for an upgrade to a diamond wheel, but
they are not much use to you without a coolant system and a work rest
(table). That's the one place I insist they be used. The rest on a diamond
grinder, however, is very unlike one on a pedestal grinder. They have a
tilt table much like a table on a circular disk grinder, often found on belt
sanders. Mine is so built, a 6" X 48" Powermatic with a 12" disc on the
side. Diamond wheels have a rather high friction coefficient and don't
lend themselves well to offhand grinding. For the most part, the should be
run wet, too. In order to avoid having more than one wheel, a grit of
around 200 is a good choice. Resinoid bond is almost mandatory, don't get
any other type. It will rough carbide reasonably fast, and yield a very
nice finish on the tool. That's quite important when sharpening carbide
because chipped edges generally lead to almost immediate failure, especially
when machining tougher material, say chrome-moly.

If you're interested in a photo or two of my grinder setup, fully home
built, contact me on the side and I'll take a few shots and describe in some
way what I did and how I did it. I built mine when I started my small
commercial shop when I had almost no money, so I had no choice but to build
it. It has served me quite well. I rebuilt it some time later to increase
the size of the splash guards on the wet side, which I made from stainless
so they wouldn't rust. Otherwise I have just used the original design,
which I built in the fall of '67.

Once you have the arbor and wheel installed, you can then fabricate a
wheel
guard that exposes the front portion of the wheel, perhaps 90 degrees of
it,
where you'd do your grinding. The wheel should have a lens of sorts to
keep dirt out of your face and eyes, although I use mine without that
feature. You can fabricate the wheel guard from a piece of pipe,
some
3/16" or 1/4" plate, plus some flat bar for brackets, and hang it off
the
screws that hold the motor together if there are no other choices for
anchoring the brackets.


This sounds like fun. I noted that the ginder does have screw holes close
to where the arbor goes in. Perhaps it had a guard at one time or another.

That's exactly what I use, the only difference likely is my motor has a
shaft out of each end, so I use the other end for a wet diamond wheel,
and
have a reversing switch so I can choose the direction of rotation I need
for
the diamond wheel. When I power the diamond wheel, I use a different
switch position, which also turns on the coolant pump. It runs only
when
needed that way. You can build a very nice grinder if you're willing
to
dedicate some time to it. If you go this route, be certain to mount it
high so you can stand erect when using it. Makes all the difference in
the
world in comfort. It can be hung off the wall with an L bracket
easily,
which is how mine used to be mounted. It now has its own base, which is
a
bit quieter.

A grinder stand might be a great idea. Is there ever a need to go to the
other
side of a grinder? Or should it be mounted with one side usable?

If you end up with a wet diamond grinder, yes, it's important to be able to
access that side. You use the grinder by facing the end of the shaft. The
type of diamond wheel you use for grinding brazed carbide tools is known as
a type DH2 as I recall. They have a flanged face of varying thickness of
diamond on the outer edge of the face of the wheel (on the side, not the OD)
which is where you do your grinding, unlike a typical grinding wheel, where
you use the outer edge, or the OD..

Thanks,
Paul

Sure thing!

Harold