On 26 Nov 2006 06:20:26 -0800, "Joe" wrote:




Paul Franklin wrote:


Open the manual shut off (turn the handle so it is inline with the
pipe).

I believe it is already inline with the pipe from the picture correct?
So once the heat starts working properly I should turn to shut off to
the perpendicular position?

Unscrew the cap that looks like a tire valve cap. Press on
the little pin inside untill all the air flows out and you get some
water flowing out.

I just unscrewed the cap and a little air and some water flowed out for
about 2 seconds then stopped. There was no pin to press down just an
open end. Do I need to do this when the furnace is actually running? -
seems like it could be a little dangerous but I could use gloves to
keep from getting scalded.

Also do I need to do this to all the radiators in the house? The
downstairs ones seem to be working fine so I'd rather not mess with
them if I don't have to.

iT'S amazing how complicated this "automatic" stuff is. In college I
lived in what had been a 3 story private house, that now had 10
bedrooms and 3 baths, with radiators in every room (plus the living
room, dining room, kitchen and a couple in the basement.

We had no automatic, and all we had to do was bleed the radiators once
in the fall. And only the ones that weren't hot all the way to the
top.

I suppose if there are air leaks in the pipes, it wouldn't last a
year, but the house was already proably 60 years old, built in 1905 or
so, and the apartment building I lived in next was built in the 30's
(it was 1968 then) and they didn't have any leaks.

Hot water is good, btw. Quieter than steam and slower temp changes
than hot air.