On 26 Nov 2006 06:20:26 -0800, "Joe" wrote:




Paul Franklin wrote:


Open the manual shut off (turn the handle so it is inline with the
pipe).

I believe it is already inline with the pipe from the picture correct?
So once the heat starts working properly I should turn to shut off to
the perpendicular position?

Yes, it's on in the picture. I'd leave it on unless you get water
leaking from the auto-vent.

Unscrew the cap that looks like a tire valve cap. Press on
the little pin inside untill all the air flows out and you get some
water flowing out.

I just unscrewed the cap and a little air and some water flowed out for
about 2 seconds then stopped. There was no pin to press down just an
open end. Do I need to do this when the furnace is actually running? -
seems like it could be a little dangerous but I could use gloves to
keep from getting scalded.

The boiler doesn't need to be running; the static pressure should be
high enough to get water to all radiators without the circulator
running. But sometimes if it is really airlocked it helps to try it
when the circulator is running. It doesn't sound like you had much
air in there if it only came out for 2 seconds. You can try repeating
a few times over a day or two and see if you get hot water flowing.

Also do I need to do this to all the radiators in the house? The
downstairs ones seem to be working fine so I'd rather not mess with
them if I don't have to.

Usually the air collects at the highest point, but it's not a bad idea
to bleed all the radiators once in a while. If they are working well
you can skip them if you like. But be sure to bleed all the radiators
on the upper level.

Good Luck,

Paul