Jimi wrote:
"BobK207" wrote in message
oups.com...

Jimi wrote:
Hello,
SNIP
Thanks Group for any constructive replies...Jimi
http://www.championirrigation.com/HT...es/Cat_CL.html
I've converted over several systems

SNIP
cheers
Bob


Thanks so much for the Information Bob!
I really like the TORO model and am sold on that for a controller. My
situation is that the manifold with the valves will probably be about 50
feet from the controller. Is that a problem?. Also I will be using 3/4"
electric valves and welding up my own manifold (pipeline welder by trade).
Are there a lot of wires to run or is it like a wire harness that I would
run to the valves? Thanks so much in reply...Jimi


I even installed one of these controllers for my 83 year old mom. She
can actually run it after a few lessons.

My brother, my neighbor, my retired boss.....all use this controller
(no complaints)

My situation is that the manifold with the valves will probably be about 50
feet from the controller

Nope, My front yard mainfold is ~70ft from the controller; back yard
~50 ft

To send the signal to the valves I use 18 gage thermostat wire, I ran
it in PVC conduit to a raintight junction box at the manifold. But if
you want you can use individual wires....I like the thermo wire becasue
the conducitrs are all differnet colors...easier to sort out.

In my situation I've got three valves at each manifold location, so I
only need 4 wires to each location. I used 18-8 thermostat wire.......
I had a roll.

The way you wire it up is.....a single common wire is shared by all
valves, then each valve gets it's own individual wire from the
controlller plug-in spring terminal.

If you've got 8 valves unfortunately you need 9 wires (1 common & 8
unique wires). So that means 18-9 or 18-10themo wire or individual
wires your choice

ebay 330050476842 18-9
ebay 330050471783 18-10

you're good to go!


I'm not a fan of the direct bury cable...seen too many failures, I old
school, I use conduit

When I build manifolds, I either solder up a copper one or glue up a
sch40 grey PVC one; I always use the valves that have at least one
union (output side). Plus I space the valve risers such that the
"classic valve acutators" can be used and ther is plenty of room to
unscrew the valves.

cheers
bob