I have an attached shed with a metal roof using rafters 16"oc and 1x3
purlins 12"oc. The roof is screwed down every other purlin. Spacing the
purlin farther apart (as in 24"oc) makes installing the roof difficult as
stepping on the roof inbetween the purlins will damage it. I used no drip
edge, just extended the roof an inch or so past the fascia.
Did you mean 3/12 pitch, you have 3/21 typed?

wrote in message
oups.com...
yep that is what I'm thinking too. Did you notice how anyone does a
drip edge though? (is there one?)

On Nov 13, 2:10 pm, "SteveF" wrote:
wrote in
oglegroups.com...

I am building a 10 X 10 woodshed and framing it as normal framing. The
roof is going to be a 3/21 sloped roof and I was thinking of using
metal roofing from HD in 12' lengths (metal sales roof mfg.). I won't
be putting down any plywood under it, and just using 2X4 for the
rafters. I know I can attach the metal roof to the 2X4 rafters, but
what about a drip edge. I will only have a 2X4 eve around the whole
roof and the manuf has this large eve/drip thing that looks just like a
very large drip edge. Think I will have any issues if I just use a
standard aluminum drip edge insteal all the way around? This is my
first metal roof and I think I only need 4 sheets of this stuff (36"
each wide) and will have 12" overhang on each side (roughly). I live
in Northeast.I'm just getting ready to build a couple of standing sheds
and have never
used metal roofing before but every one I've looked at to get ideas from
has
1x4s installed flat across the top of the 2x4s on 24" centers and the
metal
sheets are attached to that. Seems like that makes the roof
substantially
stronger and that's how I'm going to build the roof support structure on
mine.

Steve.