"Swingman" wrote in message
...
What you apear to be missing is that "jointing", as the term has been used
in this thread, is not part of the process of producing SxS hardwood
lumber
... "planing" and/or SLR (straight line rip) is.

And, once again, you do NOT need to specify "jointing" when buying SxS
lumber.

I repeat: if you want your lumber jointed, then you need to specify that
you
want it jointed, otherwise it won't be.

Ahhhh ... now that I DO agree with.

Although, it is not normally done and, IME, most hardwood lumber yards
won't
deal with it except at a much higher price, if at all.

Around here a "millwork" will have a jointer, but I wouldn't bet that all
hardwood lumber dealers or yards will as a matter of course ... and this
is
an area historically known for its hardwood production.

And once more, It is an every day practice that, if you pick your SxSxE
lumber correctly, you can get by without a jointer ... as the OP as been
advised now by quite of a few of those with a better grasp of the
situation
than you appear to be.

While these facts are inarguable, you will no doubt find a way.


Well, it's certainly unprofitable to state even the obvious to you. As
earlier, "Jointing" has nothing to do with surfacing terminology. As a
matter for fact, as many people who have contributed to this thread have
mentioned, jointing can only be accomplished once there is a flat face to
reference. The mill edger grabs and compresses the board faces, running it
through a gang saw at standard widths. The board may still have wane here
and there, can and does twist, bow and warp after this treatment, which is
normally performed green. That's why milled lumber is undersized. They have
to take away wood to get it flat and straight. They can do one or both
edges again, as you prefer. You pay for the waste.

The powered method for gaining a reference surface to join to is to employ a
Jointer, though a good thickness planer, careful work, and maybe a fiddly
fussy sled can ultimately get a flat face on most boards. Hand planes can
get a reasonable face fairly quickly as well, and may be the only choice for
wide stock, though only a fool, in my opinion, would surface fully with a
hand plane when all he has to do is knock off major deviations to allow the
table of the planer to bridge the remaining gaps. Used to do a full demo of
manual stock preparation every year for every class, and that was enough.
Concept understood, we all took advantage of technology thereafter.

The purpose of a machine is to simplify a task. Those who want to construct
secondary fences or transport sleds to join an edge on their tablesaw,
shaper or router table are certainly welcome to do so, as are those who
pronounce jointers a waste of money and then brag of LN planes costing more
than a good machine. It isn't the project that counts for them, but the
process.

If the OP is Of the "expectations" thread is reading, get a jointer first.
It simplifies everything. Most furniture does not need precisely
thicknessed wood, note the furniture produced up into the middle of the
nineteenth century, but it does demand, or at least benefit from a square,
straight edge. A jointer will get you there faster, whether it's "good
enough" thicknessing or straight, square edges.

A planer is primarily for people who do _not_ purchase fully surfaced
stock, where it is always wise to know the language before you go ask for
something. No button at the lumber yard or mill for either Spanish or
Novice. If you want something, you'll have to learn how to ask, and you'll
also have to learn how to check, because the people behind the counter are
often only as knowledgeable as the words on their computer screens.