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Malcolm Hoar Malcolm Hoar is offline
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Default Refinish Oak Table

In article gbK4h.6591$Tz.3087@trndny01, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:

"GoHabsGo" wrote in message
.244.170...
I have a 5X3 Oak kitchen table that I want to refinish. Currently it has
some kind of varnish or polyurathane finish (not sure how to tell the
diff)
that has partially worn off in spots.

What's the best way to do this? Can I just sand the old stuff off?

What is a good finish for oak? I finished a pine table that I bought
new/unfinished with some kind of oil - mink oil, if I remember right.
Would this work for oak?


Is the table solid oak or veneer? If solid, you can sand it. If veneer,
you may end up sanding right through the veneer and ruining the table. If
that is the case, use a paint/lacquer remover.

You can finish it many different ways. Tung oil, Danish oil, Varnish oil
are all good looking, but not as waterproof as polyurethane. I'd put on a
coat of poly, let it dry for a few day. Then I'd put on a second coat and
let it dry for two weeks (really, two weeks), then sand it with 320 grit
paper, then with 400 grit, then pumice, then rottenstone. You end u p with
a satin finish that is smooth, durable, and does not look like plastic.


I'd use 3 or 4 coats of gloss poly, with a very light sanding (400 grit)
between coats. Something similar for the final steps to degloss and
loose the plastic appearance -- it will look very nice indeed.

I also recommend using a good quality foam brush (e.g. Wooster's
available at Lowes) to apply the poly. Those things make it
really easy and fool-proof to get the poly on evenly and without
brushmarks.

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| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
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