On Fri, 16 Jan 2004 09:11:16 -0500, Terry King
wrote:

OK, here's what I think I'll do (Comments and GotYas appreciated):

snip

You seem to be studiously avoiding simply using the shear bolts
intended for the machine. They have two things going for them:

1 - They are heat treated to shear at a strength that is probably
going to prevent damage to the axle and tube. The heat treatment
leaves them on the brittle side because they shear cleanly on both
sides leaving a fairly flat, clean, break with a frosted appearance on
the ends of the at the breaks (a classic brittle shear). When mine
shear I push or tap out the remnant with a small punch, drop the new
bolt in, and tighten it just enough to lock the nylock nut on. The
bolt is slightly loose.

2 - Proper shear bolts will not "smear" on the broken ends as
ungrooved, smooth or threaded shank, common bolts will. The smeared
ends can inflict some damage on the holes and tube and could be a real
bitch to get out.

I have a unpaved driveway and the frost heave in Maine will generate
"new" rocks in places you thought they weren't. I don't mind the cost
of shear bolts (for my Home Depot MTD 8HP/24") at all when I look at
the big picture.

I have the skids on each side of my blower set as high as they will
go, that leaves about 1 or 1-1/2" of snow on perfectly flat level
ground. I can't get a completely clean area with a snow thrower and
really doubt that they were intended to be capable of doing that.



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