Well thanks for all the replies. I appreciate the help and information.
Sorry if I miss anyone's questions. And after reading all the replies I
see I have left out some information too.
I have forgotten to mention I have a insulated 9x7 garage door and its
steel both sides with insulation in between. So its the warmest one I
could afford.There is no windows in it as well.
I do have the floor painted.
This garage was built around a previous smaller garage and the guy
didnt want to tear the old existing garage down so cables were used to
run across the building east to west where your ceiling rafters would
usually be with of course lolicollars near the peak of the roof on the
inside. There was also a drop ceiling in the place but I replaced all
that now. There was a bit of movement after 33 years but nothing
major. The cables held the bottom of the rafters quite well. But
heating a place with that high of a ceiling and having only a drop
ceiling in there wasnt a good way to keep heat in the place.
I figured the place would be under insualted for electric heat. Glad I
asked though. I did more research on it and you guys are absolutely
right. R-38 is needed or something similar. I was told it was a good
way as long as the place is well insulated. I thought about placing
more insulation in the ceiling but come summer I imagine Ill have the
same situation only too much heat and not enough cool air. lol! I dont
want to add a air conditioner. Not yet at least. I get a very nice
breeze with the 4 windows and the garage door open and only needed a
fan on low to circulate the air this summer. It wasnt that bad. Ill see
how it goes next year and decide then.
I finally found information on northern tools how to determine how many
btus would be needed after some of you guys told me to do a load calc.
Thanks again. That helped and I hope Im right.
But according to the way northern tools explains
1-you simply multiply lxwxh to get the total cubic ft. My case would be
4480.
2-Then figure the temperature increase by the heater and subtract this
by the area temperature with out the heater. I figure take the lowest
temperature that it was during February-March(the place was already
insulated,sided,new roof,etc in February of this year) as a rough
estimate which was proabably 35 but Ill say 33 just to go under a bit.
We had some cold days and nights I remember and it may have gone to 33
but didnt go below freezing. As long as I get 60-65 heat I would be
satisfied. I dont like it too hot. Room temperature increase with
heater 69 minus lowest temperature on a cold night 35 equals = 34.(this
part doesnt make sense to me). Step 3 I found easier.
3- They state to calulate the btu's required to achieve the increased
temperature take the 4480 (total cu.ft.) x 1.33 = 5958.4 x that by
increase temperature desired with the heater. Which if my coldest night
was 35 or 33 and I want 65-69 degrees inside. There would be a 30-36
degree difference. Which would come to 22,000 btu's.
I think I would just look for a 30K unit.
The other problem along with moisture, and finding a unit, is I have a
store credit with the home depot. So I was trying to stay with
purchasing at that store so I could use the store credit up.
I did find a 30K unit that I think I can use.
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80HDUS/...rchResults.jsp
Its a direct vent unit with thermostat. The unit comes with material
for venting a 9" wall. Its a sealed combustion chamber.And it comes in
propane or natural gas. I wanted to go with natural gas but my town
does not have natural gas lines in my area nor do I think its offered
anywhere in the town. Ive seen only propane tanks. Is there anything I
can do or add on to the unit to cut the moisture that propane gives
off? Also does anyone know for sure if I can use this heater with a
vehicle in the garage? After buying two open flame heaters and having
to return them I would like to get all this settled before I use the
store credit for anything.