I would seriously consider loosing the potential storage space and closing
off the ceiling at some level. You cannot fight physics. Hot air rises.
If you leave the ceiling open, whatever heating system you use will not warm
the area in which you work until it has warmed that large open area above
you. Conversely the uninsulated roof will cause very cold air to drop down
to the working area causing internal drafts.

The 1in panels for the ceiling are better than nothing, but you really ought
to have more insulation at the ceiling, especially if you do not close it
off.

Sounds like the garage doors are also a big problem. Direct air leaking
will loose more heat than the section of wall which is not insulated by your
desk.

Try looking for some type of rubber/foam seal. Can you attach anything to
the outside frame? I did this for my garage doors. It is plastic with
rubber flange. This is now sold at the likes of Home Depot/Lowes. At the
time I purchased mine from a speciality house.

Dave Paine.


"Troy" wrote in message
...
Ok, that was my first thought. I'm installing RJ-11 insulation in the
walls that don't have it and then in the ceiling joists above the "office"
I created. I'm also insulating the cieling with 1" styrofoam panels and
the blue panels on the walls. I have a few walls ( like the one my desk
it on ) where it would be a MAJOR pain to have to pull the plywood off
the wall to insulate. Is there a better way?
My windows are so weird, that they slide UP into the wall itself. Its
hard to explain if you've never seen one. The whole window dissapears
just about. Luckily there are only 2 of them and they are small. The
garage doors are going to be my biggest problem. I looked today and sure
enough there are gaps big enough to give the largest heater a run for its
money. But short of putting a "false" wall up in front of them for the
winter I haven't the foggiest idea how to insulate them and close off
those gaps. Do they just need readjusting? There is a large "gap" in the
concrete at the base of each door but it is full of root and debri and
even if it wasn't the one door for sure would never go in there as its
bowed inward at the bottom slightly. These doors have brown horizontal
(plastic?) panels. I shouldn't call them "roll up" cause they more "fold
up" then roll. The slide up into the ceiling so to speak.
I'm in Knoxville, Iowa and already we're in the 20's at night. I've got 1
small electric heater and 2 large ones going and they are barely keeping
the office bearable. I definetly don't want to waste energy as my utility
bills are already quite high as we have a 100+yr old house! We're trying
to get it "weatherized" now. We keep not catching the guy.
As for the house we have "central heat and air" and the Garage is
unattached so I don't think that would be very efficient even though its
only about 12' from the house.
We currently have natural gas. Propane here is MUCH more expensive then
Natural gas. I was considering Kerosene like walmart sells but I don't
know about that.
My garage is roughly 24' square.
The ceiling is another thing. It is open right now. Just look up and
there's the roof. ( except as mentioned in the office )
I don't know if I should "close this off" and lose the storage space, or
keep it open. I know I need to do something!
I'm more then fine with ceiling mount. My one larger heater that I'm
using right now is a "radiant shop heater" and its a cieling mount with a
small halogen lamp for lighting.
Definetly not wealthy, in fact 100% on the opposite end of the pay scale


It will also help if I quit working at night so much. Much colder at
night of course. My body clock is all snaffued but thats another story.

Troy....
The chilly Bear.

Mike Marlow wrote:
"Troy" wrote in message
...

I'm wondering with winter roaring in, whats the safest way to heat my
refrigerator of a 2-car garage. It has roll-up doors so theres some gap
there. It's insulated on some walls and not on others, and covered
with 1/2" plywood. It has about a 6" "flue vent" from the previous
owner where apparently they used to have a wood stove, but now that
would be in my office space, so not much help to the shop itself.
I'm still working on a good dust collecting method, but with sub-zero
temperatures coming I really don't want to freeze my fingers off.

Troy


If you face sub zero winter temps then the first thing you should look at
is
properly insulating the building and addressing the gaps in the overhead
doors. You can put all the heat you want into a building but if it won't
hold the heat or it allows that nice fresh air inside through gaps, it'll
never feel nice and warm. Lots of waste there, in either money or effort
depending on whether you buy your heat or chop it.

After that, there is no such thing as the best way to heat. Start by
thinking about what form of heat you already have for the house - can you
bring that out into the garage? If not, how about propane? How big is
the
garage? There are some very good ceiling mount systems out there if
you're
interested in that option. Good way to conserve floor space.

Unless you are independently wealthy or can generate your own power, I'd
suggest staying away from electric.

I have an older, but very well maintained propane furnace in my garage.
I
do woodworking, autobody repair, mechanical repair, etc. in my garage
with
no problems and all the heat I want. My garage is 36x26 and is very well
insulated, with good, insulated metal clad doors. Works very well in
Northeast winters. More modern units are more efficient than mine and
typically smaller. If I were to replace mine it would be with a more
modern, ceiling mount unit. Mine is the size of a small refrigerator and
it
is mounted in a corner about a foot off the floor.

I use more solvents in the course of painting one car than most
woodworkers
use in the course of a year and I generate more very fine dust than any
wood
sanding process will ever generate. You will likely hear a lot about
open
pilot lights and concerns for solvents and other explosion concerns.
Most
of these (though not all) are not valid concerns. A little research into
the required ratios of vapors and/or dust to air volume will provide you
with a great deal of information that can steer your confidence in any
particular heating solution.

I went with propane because it was easier, and because I had been given
the
furnace by a friend who is a heating contractor. It came out of a
facility
where it had received annual maintenance by his company and it was on an
upgrade cycle. The price was certainly right and I already had propane
for
the kitchen stove and oven, so it was easy to simply have a larger tank
placed by the propane company. Not as efficient as fuel oil, but I
didn't
have to trench over to my basement, purchase and install all of the
copper,
etc. I keep it throttled back to the lowest setting unless I'm going to
be
working out there. At that, it keeps the garage above 40 through the
worst
of the weather. So, it does not take more than a few minutes to bring it
up
to 70.

So, there's my thoughts. But... get that place insulated.