Thread: Rough cost to insulate walls post-construction
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mcfriendly mcfriendly is offline
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Default Rough cost to insulate walls post-construction

wrote:

I live in a similar style house in the mid-west. Based on the
information supplied by out local electric company website (below) I
decided to ignore the walls and spend more on insulating the ATTIC,
DOOR SEALS, WINDOWS SEALS, and spaces between the RAFTERS in the
basement. I will let you know next spring as to the results These
are things you can do yourself (on your own time-table).

I am not ready to have people drill holes in the wall, plaster the
holes and repaint every room.

"What is the R-Factor?

The R-Factor is an insulating material's resistance to heat transfer.
The thicker the insulation, the higher the R-Factor, the more energy
efficient the application.

The R-Factor value you need depends on where you live, your utility
rates and your existing insulation. In general, use R-30 for attics;
R-13 for walls and R-19 over ventilated floor spaces and crawl spaces.
Most labels list the R-Factor on the bag or batt along with the number
of bags or batts required per 1,000 square feet of attic floor area,
the number of square feet covered per bag and the thickness you should
have upon job completion.
Where to Insulate

Your attic, walls, basement and switch plates on exterior walls are
four key areas to insulate. Areas not heated or cooled should also be
insulated.

Attics-The average home loses 33 percent of its heat through the
attic. Save up to 15 percent on your heating and cooling costs by
insulating to R-30 or better.

Walls-Walls account for up to 27 percent of the heat loss in the
average home. Insulate to R-13 or better and save up to 14 percent on
your energy bills.

Basements-Install better insulation between your floor joists or
place R-19 over unheated/uncooled areas and save up to 13 percent on
your heating and cooling costs."

best Kent

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