From your text, I'm picturing a roof intersecting a wall. Then, this
should be treated like a fireplace sticking out of your roof. This
intersection should be flashed, and drained. Adding more asphault only
gives you a false sense of security. Pick up a roofing book on how the
flashing should be done at a vertical wall intersection.

Good luck



miamicuse wrote:
As I prepare my house painting project I made the mistake of going through
everything with a fine tooth comb...and I found a lot more than I bargained
for.

So now the painting is no hold, until I can fix all the problems...

I have a concrete tiled roof, on three sides of the house the roof extended
beyond the concrete block wall with an overhang. On the forth side however,
the concrete block wall is taller than the roof line by about a foot. The
tiled roof stopped where the wall is. This wall is about 10" thick, as I
prep my exterior paint surface I figured I should paint the top of the wall
as well, so I climbed up and inspected it, and I saw the paint chipped and
bubble on top. So I used a wire brush to brush it to rid of the loose
paint, the concrete wall is in perfect shape underneath. But as I brush the
top of this wall, I also noticed the "other side" of this wall (which is
where it adjoins the roof tiles) has chipped paint as well. In some spots
there are some bubbles so I started to brush and peel those as well.

Well turns out on that side where it protudes above the roof line for about
a foot, the wall there is not just paint. It is a thicker layer of black
asphalt material, cover by paint. I believe this may be the hot mop stuff
they did for the roof? So they hot mopped the roof surface then the mopped
where it adjoins the wall as well forming a seal across where the two
surfaces meet. The roof tiles are OK and solid so there is no reason for me
to look under them.

But now what do I do with this partially peeling layer of hot mop asphalt on
this 1 foot vertical wall?

I was initially thinking of scoring it along the line where the tiles meet
the wall, riping out what is above and then reseal the joint with something
(what do I use), then repaint the wall with elastomeric paint.

But now I am not so sure, may be I should only cut out those areas that are
badly cracked. Then use some construction adhesive to glue back the hot mop
layer to the block wall to keep as much the original water proofing membrane
in place as much as possible. Then apply some other sort of sealer before
painting.

At the location where the roof tiles and wall meet, should I add on some
cement? I noticed some black cement they use to seal the ridge tiles in
place and those seem to last a long time and did not crack under the Florida
sun and rain. I assume those are somewhat flexible? Can I apply those
along that "valley" line to speed up rain runoff and protect the joint
better?

I want to get this done before I paint...I hope I can begin to paint soon
and not keep on finding other projects!

Thanks in advance,

MC