Thanks Shawn...just out of curiosity what is the HP I need for cleaning
and paint removal? The one I am using is about 2300HP. Is this too
weak? It is not taking much off and some it did enough to sort of
crack it and I had to scrap it off clean. I never done this before so
I assumed less HP better meaning that if I did not have enough I can
always improve it by renting a bigger model versus peeling more than I
am bargained for and knocking gutter straps away from their attachments
etc...

Thanks again, any comments appreciated. I know the prep work is the
most important part so I don't mind redoing the cleaning if it will
make a better end product.

MC

shawn wrote:
I would just outdoor kilz primer all of those.

Except if you end up with bare aluminum which I would zinc chromate
bare spots. Old aluminum in florida probably already has oxidation,
chalkyness, from salt air, etc so nothing will be perfect...so I
wouldn't overanalyze it. Some say use oil based primers,etc but
florida heat makes everything expand and contract, latex has some give
to prevent cracking.

Florida air, heat,etc is tough on everything...just get it done and be
prepared to do it again in 10 years or sooner =) Hell even anodized and
powder coated aluminum looks like crap down here after 10 years.

the primer is also too help bond new paint to old surfaces.

If the aluminum is previously painted I personally would probably only
primer bare surfaces OR if the paint is in bad shape cracks, lots of
peeling, chalky I would definently primer. Otherwise if the paint is in
good shape I'd probably go right over it. Unless the color is very
different then I would primer it to save on paint costs. Safer to
primer though for a few bucks and extra hours.

on the old stucco, the pressure washing is to remove paint that is not
bonded, clean the surface,etc if the left over paint is not chalky you
can probably safely paint over it but given the amount of work I would
primer it. If you're in florida it is probably chalky. The primer will
save on paint costs big time...primer is cheaper than paint, it will
also provide a better finish.

Save on all the special stuff, buy kilz primer, then the best exterior
paint you can afford. Porter paints or sherwin williams if you have
the $. I used behr on my old painted stucco and its only 5 years looks
new still. but I wasn't sure how much I would use...I sprayed mine and
thought I would use alot as my sprayer (graco) uses alot of paint. But
it turns out after primering i used very little paint...I would have
gotten the sw or the porter.

Double check your old stucco paint though...seriously....after not
liking the results from my box store pressure washer I hired out a
truck mounted one. My home PW didn't take jack off....the guy with
truck mounted one removed 85%+ of the paint on the house in a couple
hours. But my paint was 17 yrs old, peeling and completely chakly...if
yours is in better shape you might not need that much horse power.

- shawn


miamicuse wrote:
I am in the process of repainting my house. I need a primer for the
exterior stucco wall, eave mount fascia wood boards, the aluminum gutters
that are attached to the fascia board etc...

The paint store suggested that I get a special primer for each surface - a
masonry sealer for the stucco wall, for the fascia board use a wood primer
and for the gutters use something for metal...

But as I pressure cleaned them, the original paint on the walls, the gutters
and fascia boards are still there, there are spots that were removed by the
pressure cleaning but that is less than 5%. Therefore the primer will be
applied not over the raw materials - stucco, wood, alumnimum, but over the
existing paint which is arcylic. Following that logic, I would say it makes
no sense to use a wood primer to paint on a fascia board that is covered by
more than 95% existing paint, hence I need a primer for existing paint
surface, right? or am I overanalyzing?

Thanks in advance,

MC