Regarding upvc doors. Upvc Doors have little resistance to slump, due
to lack of triangular compressive resistance in their design. When
fitting glazing to the frame you should think in reverse, your actually
fitting the frame to the glass. The glazing is the only true right
angle and is to be exploited. Assuming the external frame is securely
fixed and the hinges and internal frame swing , then any binding is due
to frame drop. Pop the beads off, even the gaps left and right with
plastic packers ,top and bottom. Place a 5-6mm packer in the gap on the
bottonm rail closest to the hinge side. Now lift the internal frame
manually and pack the top gap on the latch side until the gaps top and
bottom run parallel to the glazing. voila! frame squared to glazing.
Refit beads. The whole door unit now has dimensional rigidity due to
the "Gallows" aspect of heel and toe packing. Hope this helps.
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
TheScullster wrote:
urely once the door has been set up such that it will open and close
correctly, any further displacement must either be failing hinges or
movement of the outer door casing itself due to lack of fixings?

I fitted a UPV door set from Screwfix, and the instructions were very
clear about being careful the frame was square.

IIRC, it's the bed which is the most important as it supports the lot,
while the side and top fixings simply locate it - although these obviously
need to be sound.

I did take care, and mine has been fine for a number of years now.

So I'd check the bottom for level and the diagonals to look for distortion.

--
*What happens if you get scared half to death twice? *

Dave Plowman London SW
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