"Arch" wrote in message
...
1.
Adequately answered.


2. Does pounding a blank into a spur center on the lathe or driving the
tail center hard against the blank harm the bearings?

The bearings are designed to work against an axial load, loading at 90
degrees is bad for them. Hammering is worse.

Also not sure if the
N3K's bearing race being tightened against the head casting is the cause
of the 'braking effect' of over tightening the tail center?


Betting the bearings at the headstock are _much_ better than the ones in the
live center. Look there for drag.

3. When the headstock end of a long heavy blank held with tail support
is balanced with counterweights adjusted on a steel plate, is the entire
length of the long blank now in balance. (ie. do I need to balance both
ends of a long heavy blank?)


I reread the answer, and it still does not make sense to me. If I taper the
bottom of a bowl blank, it doesn't start oscillating, so any physics are
going to be so subtle as to be meaningless. It is mv squared, after all,
and for balance _Delta_ (difference) is the appropriate mass. What makes
sense is to get as much unneeded wood out of the way at the bandsaw as
possible.

3. A circle loads same-o all directions.


4. Is a Jarno taper used on a Jacob's chuck arbor because it's short or
there other reasons? Which best prevents mating parts from rotating, MT
or JT? I've had both tapers slip by deliberately overstressing cheap
chucks. I let them rust to prevent slipping. Is there a better way to
'tighten' Morse & Jarno tapers?

Keeping things short minimizes the effect of runout error. Side loads -
see above - ar not what tapers are about. Clean, unlubricated is what you
want, just as the directions have it.


5. If it's a practical truth and not a logical myth that hi carbon steel
makes better scrapers than hi speed steel, then why wouldn't cold rolled
steel flats make even better scrapers? Probably like the three bears,
the middle is just right.

Malleability counts in turning the burr. Of course, the more easily it's
turned up, the more easily it can turn down. No burr is really required
with the piece in motion, just an edge on your HSS will do.


6. May not matter, but does my N3K's VS DC motor & its controls want me
to use its speed pot or the run switch or the line switch for the
frequents stops & starts during a long turning session? (please _ignore
the advantages of ramping up or down. that's not the question) Does it
hurt anything but my light bill to leave both line and run switches on
and the speed pot turned to zero?

Betting it matters not. Probably a shunt besides the braking for the
generated DC.


I bet the answers are obvious to someone here, but they sure aren't to
me.


Always interesting to get an explanation and then test it. Hopefully these
are better than hypotheses.