On Tue, 9 Sep 2003 20:24:01 +0100, "Slugsie" wrote:

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 9 Sep 2003 15:55:13 +0100, "Slugsie" wrote:

You don't say whether the stack is plastic or cast iron. I guess
that since it's an outside one, it's more likely to be cast iron,
depending on the age of the property.

[I always forget some details, sorry]
The house is 120 odd years old, but the bathroom is part of an extension
built within the last 25 years, and so the pipework is all plastic.

Oh good, then that helps.


At any rate, moving the pan closer to the stack involves shortening
the run of pipe outside (obviously). How easy that will be to do
will depend on the angle. If the pipe only has a fairly gentle
slope, you may be able to get away with just pulling it out of the
stack, shortening it and replacing it at a very slightly steeper
angle. There is a small amount of flexibility, but not a huge
amount.

The sloping pipe is about 20" (from centers), with a slope of only a few
inches. Do I take it then I'm looking at drilling a new hole in the wall,
and shortening the sloping pipe?

Basically yes.

The trick is going to be getting the geometry right.

First of all, the tiling is going to raise the height of the pan by
(say) half an inch, possibly a bit less depending on what you are
doing. If you are tiling onto a boarded floor, and suspect any
movement, it's common to put down a sheet of ply and to tile onto
that, which of course will add to the height as well.

Secondly, the pan is going closer to the stack, so if you think about
the angles, the pipe outside will be lower at the new position than
the existing.

The first step would of course be to make a new hole or extend the
existing one sideways and make good. You could hire a core drill if
you like the idea of a really neat hole.

You would need to measure or simulate the new height of the pan
accounting for the tiling and possible ply flooring.

I can think of several ways to realign everything.

a) Use a flexible pan connector. e.g. Screwfix 17529
You need enough depth behind the pan to accommodate one of these and
IMHO they look a bit naff and amateurish.

b) Use an adjustable bend. e.g. Screwfix 50087
This would probably be the bend taking the short run of pipe outside
through the wall and would be a neater looking solution assuming it
works mechanically.

c) Raise the height of the stack slightly to bring the short run of
pipe into correct alignment with the new hole.
This could be done with a short length of soil pipe and a connector
e.g. Screwfix 14551

d) Similar to (c) and neater, possibly even cheaper, replace the
section of stack below the branch, raising the height.

The pipe can be cut easily with a hand saw. It will fit the sockets
more easily if you debur and slightly taper the cut ends.
Silicone lubricant can be used to help get the pipe past the rubber
seals, or just as effectively, some washing up liquid.

This isn't the highest on my list of pleasant jobs, but is not as
disgusting and pongy as you might imagine. If you thoroughly clean
the pan before you start and put down some scented disinfectant or
bleach before you start it will help. A plastic bag taped over the
pan spigot isn't a bad idea either since there will still be water in
the pan, although you could bale that out.

Given what you have, this is not a difficult DIY job and you will have
learned about making big holes through walls neatly and working with
PVC soil pipe. Any likely problem is easily and cheaply fixable, so
this is not a high risk project.




..andy

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