Concrete is easier to offer suggestions. Even with it, the
choices are endless.
Asphalt can be excellent pavement. Many state highways are paved
with asphalt. Most shopping centers and large parking lots are
done with asphalt. There are many different levels of asphalt
work. I would suggest that their specifications are more
stringent than what you would use for a residential driveway.
Asphalt work usually costs less than concrete, so it is used
usually as a cost saving choice.
Water is the death of asphalt. Rain and surface water wash out
the oils, but water in the subsoil spell early doom. In areas
that have clay, asphaltic paving often uses lime stabilization (or
fly ash) to waterproof the subsoil. Petromat is another method of
reinforcing asphalt paving. See these choices:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=0&ct=result&cd=1 &q=petromat&spell=1
Compacted gravel to an appropriate depth provides another way of
getting water away from the asphalt and providing a stable base.
You may want to consider multiple
options. You have never said what was wrong with your asphalt.
If it is disintegrating and losing the stones, it has lost the
oils. If it is breaking up in chunks, it is overloaded - think
about the condition of asphalt at the dumpster where the trash
trucks stop to lift the trash. If it has potholes and sunken
areas, it is suffering from water problems in the subsoil. If it
has ruts and dents where you always park it was either too thin,
not compacted well, wrong type, or a combination of several
things. For a residential driveway I would think that 2" of class
C on a stabilized or well compacted base would be minimally
adequate. I would think your gravel base should be about 6"
thick. There is no reason to disturb whatever base you have now
unless you have had water failure. If you have major subsoil
moisture problems ask about lime, fly ash, geotextile.
Very few people on this forum will be able to answer your question
about prices in Boston. Asphalt is usually priced by the square
yard (9 SF per SY). All prices are crazy - remember asphalt is a
petroleum product, fuel charges are up, work is plentiful; your
job is quite small; all of which work against you. If you get
someone for $10/SY plus removal and haul off, thank your lucky
stars and make your deal. Concrete will be about triple. I'm
sure your prices will be much higher, but it gives you a starting
figure. Ask friends, neighbors, church goers who they may have
had do small asphalt work. There are many companies that don't
even want to talk to you about such a small job. That's not
fair - your driveway may be a half mile long, two lanes wide. A
typical twenty foot drive drives the other comments. It's hard to
even turn a skidsteer, tractor, or laydown machine around in a
normal driveway space. If you have a putting green lawn, the
price just doubled.
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
"Robert11" wrote in message
...
Hi,
I posted this some time ago, but received only one reply with a
suggested Link, which doesn't work.
Thought I'd try again, as really hoping to get some info on.
It's such a big expense.
Thanks.
-------------------
Hello,
Have a home driveway that has to be repaved.
It's been so many years since it was last, I really don't
remember any of
the details.
I believe a bed of crushed stone was put down first.
Questions:
a. Assuming there is a bed of crushed stones there now, do I
want the
contractor to remove all this old stone, and put down a new
stone bed before putting
down the new asphalt ? Why ?
Or, can he just remove the old asphalt, and leave the stones in
place ?
(seems almost impossible to do, I would think, but am not sure
?)
b. What should the stone bed thickness be ?
c. What should the asphalt thickness be ?
d. What's a "typical" price (per square foot, I guess) for a
complete job
including the new stone bed ?
(live outside of Boston)
Not too sure what else to really ask.
Any other thoughts on would be most appreciated.