stryped wrote:
There are no provisions for them. I guess you just have to adjust the
knoves themselves in relation to the table.
....
That's no different--the only difference is the convenience of having
the screw below the knife isn't there and that does make the adjustment
more tricky to get done precisely. If I had a jointer w/ that type of
head, it would quite possibly be the incentive to get one of the
magnetic knife-holding jigs or rig up something similar to ease the
alignment.

The problem/difficulty is that if the gib is too lose so the knife
moves easily, the accuracy isn't very good. If the gib is snug, and
the knife needs to come up (out) some, when it does move, often the
whole gib moves at the same time and if it needs to go down (in), that
doesn't work well because it just tightens the gib by forcing it into
the taper. That's how the adjusting screw really helps, it gives you
that force from behind the knife to start a little low and "sneak up"
on perfection.

That said, it _is_ doable, just takes patience and a little touch. As
noted before, check that the cutter head is parallel to the table
first, then get the knives all even. It's very important that they are
even so that each takes the same cut depth. Otherwise you'll get an
uneven edge as one will take a deeper cut than the others.

After you've got them all the same, take some test cuts and check that
the cut is straight--the manual describes the symptoms with too
high/too low and how to correct it w/ the fine adjustment of the cutter
head quite well. The thing there is to make very small corrections and
do precisely the same on both ends to maintain the knvies parallel to
the bed tables. As I recall, those adjusting screws are a standard
thread which is pretty coarse for this kind of adjustment, so a
fraction of a turn is quite a lot of height travel.

HTH...again, having had one of these beasties, while they are touchy,
it can be set up correctly and will do excellent work once this is done.