Ok. Here is some more information:

1) Model 427707; Type 1522 01 Code: 9301235B

2) I cranked the engine with the multimeter touching the positive and
negative battery posts. The volts dropped to a little above 10 volts.

3) With the spark plugs removed, the engine turned rapidly.

I appreciate your expertise. What's next? Thanks

Ether Jones wrote:
wrote:
I have not gotten the mower starter yet, but I think I am getting
closer to finding the problem. Here is an update: First, Ether Jones
asked for the model number. It is 422707. It is a 1993 tractor.

You have the same engine as I do, only quite a bit older. Mine has
electronic ignition, but yours probably has a mechanical ignition
system (points and condenser). Please provide the Type and Code
numbers as well. They should be on the same label.


Second, many of you suggested that the problem might be a weak
battery. I took the battery to the local parts store and they tested
it under load. The battery was partially discharged. They charged it
up again and tested it. The battery tested ok
When I reconnected the recharged battery, there was improvement.
Before, the engine just barely cranked. Now it is cranking better, but
still weakly.

So, put your voltmeter across the battery terminals and tell us what
the voltage is while the engine is cranking. Re-post when you have
this info. I hope you haven't cranked it so much that you've worn the
battery down again.


In fact, it was sufficently weak to cause me to think
that the problem is still with the electrical system/starter system as
opposed to a fuel problem.

You say "the" problem. It is likely that you have more than one
problem.

Your original problem was that the engine was running but then stalled.
This probably has nothing at all to do with your slow-cranking
problem.

Disconnect the wires and remove the spark plugs. Try cranking the
engine with the plugs removed. It should crank quite fast (because
it's not fighting engine compression). Re-post after you've run this
test and tell us the results. If it does not crank fast, you've either
got a bad starter motor, or bad cable connections, or a serious
friction problem in the engine. (Or a bad battery, but you said the
person at the parts store tested it).


The person at the parts store suggested that I run a test by
attaching the negative battery cable to the battery, but before
connecting the positive cable, I should put one prong of the
multi-meter on the battery post and the other on the positive battery
cable. I did this. The multimeter showed a volts reading of about
one-half a volt. I understand that a non-zero reading means that there
is a short somewhere in the electrical system.
Is this likely where the problem is?

No.

If so, how exactly do I locate
the short.

You probably don't have a short.

I am thinking that I need to disconnect parts of the
wiring one by one until the multimeter reads zero. When this happens,
the disconnected wire would be where the short is. Is this right? If
so, where should I start?
Also, one reply suggested that engine friction might be the problem
or a contributing problem. I can turn the flywheel by hand. Is there
a way to determine whether the friction is excessive

run the test above with the spark plugs removed.

or is this
something mechanics just have feel for through experience? It did not
feel excessive to me, but I don't know how turning the crankshaft would
feel on a new engine.
I appreciate everyone who has left comments. I have found them to
be very helpful. I am hopeful that with a little more help, I can get
this thing fixed.

wrote:
I have an older Sears Craftsman lawn tractor with a 180 opposed twin
cylinder Briggs and Stratton Engine. My son was cutting the lawn with
it the other day and it gradually stalled out on him. He started it
up again, but it quickly stalled out again. Now the engine will barely
crank and will not start.

I checked the battery with a multi-meter and it tested at 12 volts. I
tried jumping it with a portable power source and this did not help. I
tried a new on/off switch and this did not help. I removed the cover
and I can turn the flywheel by hand without difficulty. The oil level
appears to be ok.

Any suggestions of what I should do next. I don't have much
experience with engine repair, but due to the tractor's age I don't
think it would be worth taking to a repair shop. So I willing to take
a shot at home repair.

From what I've read I am thinking the starter engine might be the
problem. One internet source suggested jumping the starter directly
from the battery. I am willing to try this, but it appears on my mower
that I need to first need to remove the flywheel to get to the starter
and this looks like a major undertaking, especially given the age of
the engine.
Is the starter where I should start or are there other things I
should or could check first? One question I have is whether a problem
in the starter would have caused the engine to stall out after it was
already going?

Any other suggestions on how to troubleshoot this issue? I do have a
basic Briggs and Stratton manual for the engine on a CD-Rom, but it
does not contain alot of trouble shooting info (at least that was
helpful to me) on the starter/electrical system. It is helpful,
however, on assembly and disassembly issues.