Barry:
Thanks for a very detailed response. After a little more research and some
experimentation, I just applied a first coat of BLO and it looks very good.
I'll let it set overnight and apply a second light coat in the morning.

RonB



"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 15 Sep 2006 20:07:35 -0500, "RonB" wrote:

I usually stain and then wipe on several coats of poly for durabity. Any
thing special I should know about staining this wood?

I wouldn't apply a stain in a typical method, it'll blotch like crazy.

Options I would choose from, in no particular order:

- Water base poly alone, to keep the wood as light and bright as
possible

- a rubbing with BLO, followed by oil based poly, or better yet,
sprayed and rubbed clear lacquer, for a "honey maple" look. I just
did a king-sized platform bed with a birdseye headboard for a client
with this finish. The results are drop-dead gorgeous.

- a _LIGHT_ colored dye, followed by appropriate clear coats,
depending on "ambering" wants. Medium and darker dyes often blotch.

- a sprayed, tinted toner made from Seal Coat or lacquer tinted with
compatible dyes or universal colorants, followed by appropriate clear
coats, depending on "ambering" wants. Solar Lux dye stain is an
excellent colorant, universal tints come in tubes from any paint
store. A little universal colorant goes a LOOONG way.

--- If I _MUST_ stain it beyond a light honey color: ----

I'd Seal Coat it, then apply a Behlen's / Mohawk wiping stain evened
by dry-brushing, followed by Seal Coat again, followed by appropriate
clear coats, selected depending on "ambering" wants. After the second
Seal Coating, I'd carefully de-nib each coat with fresh 400 grit.

I like to rub out lacquers and varnishes (incl poly) by wet sanding
(with paint thinner or kerosene) 400 & 600, followed with a gray
synthetic pad with pumice & paraffin oil, and waxed with a white
synthetic pad. On larger surfaces, I put the synthetic pads under my
ROS.

Try whatever you do on scrap, noting each step on the back. Staining
blotch-prone woods without spray gear is a pain, as you have to be
very diligent with the dry brush. The more detailed the piece, the
more you'll want spray gear.

I would NEVER, EVER apply any stain or dark dye directly to maple,
birch, pine, etc... ALWAYS use a barrier. DAMHIKT G