Thread: hot melt glue?
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Alan Alan is offline
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Default hot melt glue?

Hi,

Bostik 6303 is a good choice if you want a hot melt glue designed for
wood (and a prouct that performs ina predictable manner once you start
using it).

An application to try is an almost complete circle a little in from
the edge of your glue block (turned slightly concave). Leave a gap in
the "circle" to prevent any air trapped pushing the glue out from
between the two surfaces.

Use too much of the Bostik and it wil be hard to remove the turned
item!

if you finish the base of your item and want to secure it with hot
melt, be sure to seal it first as the hot melt can tear grain. Turn a
small recess in the glue block to take the base and assist centreing
the reversed work. Try not to use too much. Any adhering glue can be
removed from the base, when it is removed from the glue block, with a
rag dipped in thinners.

This is a summary of the procedure from a very good turner who doesn't
us a chuck for bowl.

Alan

On 14 Sep 2006 13:34:23 -0700, "Steve S"
wrote:

Hi,

I have no chuck other than a faceplate, and so use my hot glue gun for
most things. I simply run a fairly think ring of glue around the the
middle of the block, (I use a block of wood screwed to the faceplate)
and stick the wood on.

It's never come off, but does pry of easily with a flat chisel a the
end.

So my answer is - I use whichever glue sticks are the cheapest at
B&Q...

Steve


Canchippy wrote:
wrote:
Hi Bruce

I use the hotmelt glue rarely, however it is one more arrow in your
quiver so to speak, and there are times it comes in handy.

First, you use it on dry wood, have your glue gun on for a long time so
it is really heated up well, then I use a propane torch to warm up the
wood so the glue doesn't cool as quickly, and than work fast, start
gluing in the center and spiral to the edge, join and clamp it down,
DONE.

I use a heat gun to warm the wood and the bowl. You can even get the
glue to a higher temperature with no fear of flames. If a recess is
turned in the scrap block and a foot turned to match then the whole
assembly will still stay concentric whilst drying and re-mounting for
final truing is a breeze!
Peter
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