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Roger Mills Roger Mills is offline
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Default Garage power supply - Recap [Longish]

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Andy Wade wrote:


Someone suggested using a different type of CU in the garage - so
that if I were to do something with a power tool which caused the
RCD to trip, it wouldn't also take out the lights. Is that what is
meant by a 'split load' CU? Any suggestions as to exactly what I
would need (make, model, etc.)?


Yes, it would be split load. This was covered earlier in the thread
and I made some suggestions then. Again:

Yes, for TT a main switch and two RCBOs would be a good option, or
main switch with one MCB (lights) and one RCBO (power) for TN. I'd be
inclined to make the 'power' RCBO a 20 A one - RCBOs only come as
Type B and 16 A Type B might tend to trip on motor starting currents,
or the inrush current of a 230 - 115 V tool transformer. (Alternatively
keep the 16 A circuit for sockets only and provide
separate motor circuits for any machines.) You can buy all the MK
consumer unit parts separately from a wholesaler, including TLC if
you want to buy on-line.


Hi again Andy,

Thanks for the above information. I'm still a bit confused!

From earlier discussions, it looks likely that my main supply is TN-C-S or
*possibly* TN-S.

I've looked at the MK stuff on TLC's website, and can't quite work out what
I need - not for a reasonable price anyway! Their split load CUs are 70-odd
quid +VAT before putting any innards in. Can you suggest a shopping list of
bits which would give me MCB protection for lights and RCBO for power - and
be compatible with my mains supply - without costing an arm and a leg? [The
price reference is the Screwfix garage enclosure for £37 - so I'm hoping to
get something which *doesn't* take out the lights when the RCD trips for not
too much more than this].

Incidentally, my current thinking is to join the T&E to the SWA using an
adaptable box in the roofspace. This means that there won't be any joints
exposed to the weather, and the cable won't need chasing so deep into the
wall of the en-suite. Hopefully, I can strip the end of the SWA and fit the
gland in the en-suite, and then poke it up through the hole in the ceiling,
and then grovel in the attic to make the actual connection, which shouldn't
be too bad. Does this sound reasonable?
--
Cheers,
Roger
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