NN wrote:
NN wrote:
Homer J Simpson wrote:
"NN" wrote in message
oups.com...

Check the lid interlock switch. Check for a thermal overload switch on
the
motor.
I did check the cord on the same outlet with a equivalent load. The
lid interlock switch is in front of me now. But how does it work? It
has four connectors named , neut, line, moter, machine. I would hook
up a meter to neut and line and how do I test the two other connectors
and what do I look for when the switch is in lid closed position.

Odd, but neut will connect to moter or machine and line will connect to the
other of the pair.
I understand the overheating issue ( although the machine died from a
cold start immediately after I started it ). All machines have some
type of termal switch for fire protection.

Now for the lid switch, I can hook up a low volt battery to neut and
line and use a 12 light for testing. where do I put the 2 wires for
the light and look for ? Or how do I bypass it for now?

Update, I found the thermal switch (one time use) build into the lid
switch. That,s it but one must now wonder why did it burn out.

Ok, nothing really burn out but a piece of plastic made in the shape of
hour glass (cheap fuse) held another contact together for the whole
machine in the same case as the lid switch. I guess if things get hot
from the nearby lid switch, the plastic melts and the whole machine
goes off. Talk about as cheap as it gets. I am happy to say it
working again.

By the way, the neutral connector is a dead end in the switch. I like
the heat sensors from old copying machines which are a resettable
breaker. You covered all that stuff though. This lid switch house
also the heat plastic fuse. One less part, The machine is 8 years old
and very simple or sparse inside. It look like a beltless system.