Hi!

I skipped overheating because it makes no sense with a dead machine.

Actually, it could. Most larger electric motors have an integral protection
device of some type. Some are one-shot thermal cutouts that, when blown,
must be replaced. Others are circuit breaker type devices...some of which
are "self resetting" given time to cool, and others that must be reset
manually by pushing a button.

A problem that trips one of these devices can also damage or destroy it. I
don't think they're terribly high quality, as I've seen thermal cutouts that
didn't go until something started to smell hot or was damaged by getting too
hot. More often than not, I've also seen the circuit breakers or fuses in a
home react before the device's onboard breaker interrupted current flow. The
main idea behind these may simply be fire prevention...

There is no way to test the timer at home.

If it is an analog timer, there might be. Disconnect the washing machine
**completely** from electrical power. Put your meter leads across the plug
ends and turn to a resistance measurement scale. Turn the machine on and off
a few times. Rotate the timer with the machine "on". If the needle changes,
the timer may be OK.

The most common failure that I've seen is that of the lid switch. But on a
machine that will fill with the lid open, that should still happen.

William