JustinW wrote:
On Fri, 25 Aug 2006 12:55:37 -0700, terry wrote:


.
Can you just cap it off at some point where the pipe seems reasonably
substantial and get- at-able. Even if you have to hacksaw off the pipe
and then cut a thread on it onto which to screw a galvanised cap?
Just an idea anyway.



I did rent and use a portable manual pipe threader some time back. I
wonder where I could find one of these...


Great idea -- thanks!

That would have been my first thought, but I would probably have just
cut if off at the first elbow so could put the spigot back...but,
anyway, that's over--

For up to inch pipe a manual threader isn't bad at all and imo
something one should have, anyway. But, for simply one or two joints,
a die and a handle is all you would have to have unless the quarters
are so tight you must have the ratcheting handle. Would think you
could do the minimal "get by with" for not much over a rental fee and
have it for the future, besides.

Another comment/thought or two--heat is good, but need more than a
propane torch to have much luck for really stuck pieces--an
oxy/acetylene torch is best of course, although I've been told Mapp gas
will work, I've not tried it (since I have a torch, not had the need).
Of course, gotta' be careful w/ the flame around stuff so under the
house isn't really good place to practice!

If you must get back to the tee for some reason, I'd seriously consider
the same trick of cutting the tee out of the existing pipe and fitting
a new section in. Could use a union if lacking space or can't turn the
other end to make the final connection.

If it is a reducing bushing and not a reducing coupling, then the idea
of splitting it isn't so feasible. There are also splitters for pipe
fittings simliar to nut splitters if it is a real bear and need more
repair in the future.

As for pipe dope, most, while they will harden w/ time don't actually
sieze so maybe this wasn't really a pipe dope anyway. Or there wasn't
enough to prevent the buildup of corrosion to the point the threads are
actually rusted together throughout the joint. A good quality dope
should be fine for reassembly imo.