Roger Mills wrote:

Many thanks for your response.

The local MCBs are 16A for power and 6A for lighting - so, under overload
conditions, should trip prior to the 32A one at the house end. Of course, if
I cut through a wire and connect live to earth before live to neutral, the
RCD will trip and I'll lose the lights as well. I guess I have to live with
that.

By a slight change to the choice of CU though that is easy enough to avoid.

Where does that other earth wire go that drops down from the CU? What
is that little box at the bottom of the frame?


The other earth wire goes into an adjoining cupboard which houses the gas
meter, and is clamped onto a gas pipe.

So no main bond to the water service then?

The little box at the bottom is a
junction box for telephone wiring.

Thought as much, but thought I had better check!

If coming from above, could you not have an adaptable metal box in the
loft space instead?


I *could* join it in the loft space - but that bit of loft is pretty
inaccessible, so I was trying to avoid it. What does an adaptable metal box
look like?

Box looks like:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...ble/index.html
or
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...ded/index.html

You could use crimps, but since it will remain accessable screw
connectors are ok. If you opt for using the screen as a CPC I would be
reluctant to have the gland connection burried in a wall behind a
metal box.


I guess I'd need a half-way decent ratchet crimping tool to use crimps -
which I don't have. I take your point about burying the gland in the wall.

In which case why not chase down the bathroom wall as described, but
rather than installing a metal box in the bathroom, simply drill
throught the wall at that point (keeping within 6" of the bathroom
ceiling). You can stick some capping over the T&E to facilitate future
replacement if you wish.

Now install your cable and plaster over the chase leaving no visible
accessory in the bathroom. Now visit the other side of the wall where
hopefully you have a bit of T&E dangling, and poke it into the back of
one of the aformentiond boxes (a IP65 one would probably be a good
choice here). Screw it to the wall, and you can then stick a nice neat
SWA gland into the knockout at the base of the box. Choose the right box
ad you may even get one complete with junction terminals. That means
your joint is accessable and serviceable, no extra clutter to tile round
the bathroom, and no groveling in the loft!

Your expert advice will be much appreciated.

As usual it is worth what you paid! ;-)


If you're selective about what advice you accept, much of the advice given
here is actually worth a lot more than we pay for it!

Yup, second that many times over, thanks guys!

--
Cheers,

John.

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