I also have the Ridgid, with riser. It's no more cheapie than any
other chaiwanese saw. Yes I still dream of a laguna some day.

Tune it up (Duginske's bandsaw book). I didn't get wheels completely
coplanar - they were close and futzing with washers wasn't worth it.

Biggest improvement. Spend the $ for a good blade. I have a
timberwolf 1/2" 3tpi blade. And, per Timberwolf instructions, low
tension (it happens to be 1/2 turn past the 3/8" mark on my saw). It
cuts "straight enough". What that means is, using the curved fence
(like Duginske suggests), given the relatively slow feed rate (if I
want to rip lumber, I'll use the TS, which is faaaar faster), I can
resaw lumber and it 'cuts the line'. I just resawed many feed of 8/4
cherry for bookmatched cabinet drawers and no wandering or bow or
drift. I've also cut 1/8" veneers, ready for the drum sander, this
way. If I need to cut 1/32" veneers maybe I'll sweat it.

Like others have said, when drift appears, my experience is the blades
are getting dull. I use these blades for rough work like bowl blank
cutting. I use my new blades for furniture work like resawing where
tolerances are more important.

I'd suggest that after you align your saw and get a good blade, you
follow my other hobby's maxim. "Relax. Don't worry. Have a homebrew."
After the power tools are off, of course.