Arch, it's quite simple to cut a recess in the top of a box and insert
an inlay of figured or spalted wood. After the recess is cut, cut and
fit the inlay by using DF tape and a faceplate on the figured wood.
Glue on the insert , reverse the lid and shape the lid top. Easy to do
and the box top can be quite striking. A knob or finial can be added if
desired, although I find that it's usually better without. .
Arch wrote:
I have a problem with the finished tops of the lids of NIP end grain
containers such as boxes and canisters. The top of a lid cut off from a
roughed blank with the soft pith left in is ugly and hard to correct.
I've covered the pith with coffee grounds & glue, beads, marbles, and
little sea shells, but they all appear to be hiding something or just
don't look right. Turned inlays and finials take a lot of time and often
the tail wags the dog. Inlace and cabachons (art talk for pricy inserts)
seem inappropriate for blue collar working vessels. For me, it's a
matter of picking the less of several evils.

Not that some on-end pith can't be attractive, but what do you all do
about ugly cross section pith? Remember that NIP doesn't burn well in a
fireplace or taste good on the barbie.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


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