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[email protected] meow2222@care2.com is offline
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Default Options for simple Kitchen Fluorescent light upgrade?

jkn wrote:
Hi all
One of those questions where 'not enough' information is gonna be
supplied, I'm afraid ...

We're having the kitchen ceiling re-boarded & skimmed shortly. I will
be taking down the current light and pull-switch in preparation. I
would like to replace the existing 5 foot standard contract fluorescent
fitting with something a little better, either aesthetically and/or
functionally; yet just at the moment I really don't want to spend long
on making any changes.

So for the moment altering the wiring (much), or extending to make a
'proper' job of it, is not on. Instead ... I'm looking for ways to
improve the appearance and maybe utility of the current scheme with
minimal work. The kind of things I'm thinking of a

- a 'deluxe' fluorescent fitting, just for appearances sake. Are there
such things?
- maybe replacing the single 5 footer with a couple of shorter
'staggered' ones, or something similar
- a genius idea that I haven't thought of and which will amaze me!

OK, a little bit more info. The kitchen is 2.5m by 2.6m, with a window
facing east. There are standard cupboards (with a gap to the ceiling)
on the N wall. The kitchen is actually one half of a kitchen/diner;
there is a similar-sized room (with a similar Fluorescent) connected on
the W side.

The current Fluorescent is in the middle of the kitchen ceiling,
running E-W. I think the joists run this way.

As I say, not enough information! Nevertheless, any thoughts?

Thanks a lot
Jon N



If you need something quick and simple, I'd put in a 4' electronic
ballasted fl light with a 3500K tube. Later if you get time you could
add a sheet wood cover over it to block direct view and spread the
light about more.

Electronic ballasts mean no flashing during startup, and no running
flicker. 3500K is probably the best of the (cheaper) halophosphate fl
tubes, triphosphors are the best but will add a tenner to the price.

Beware of accepting whatever tube youre offered, a lot of people wind
up with junk grade tubes, or unsuitable ones such as 4000K.

If you run wires to any over-cupboard area thats easily reached, more
lighting can be added in later if you ever get a round twit.

If youre able to take each lighting point feed back to the switch, do.
Then as and when you can put a switchbank in, which is a real
improvment over a single switch.


NT