"Gabrielli" wrote in message
. com...
Ok, here goes...

We're putting in a bathroom window where one did not exist before, so our
original intention was to order a new construction window. However, since
the (insert name of large home improvement store) guy said it would be
hard to get the nailing flange underneath the aluminum siding on the
outside (it's a small window in the middle of a wall so we don't want to
remove the siding) he suggested just ordering a replacement window. Ok,
we ordered a replacement window. So far so good.

We've rough-framed the opening with standard 2x4 studs but now things are
getting a little murky. The studs have their normal depth of 3 1/2" and
add to that about 1/2" for the outer wallboard and another 1/2" roughly
for the aluminum siding at its widest. Coming inside from the studs,
there's 1/2" for the drywall (and a negligible width for the tub surround
that we'll just cut to fit). So the wall depth totals 5 inches.

The window is 3 1/4" deep. The J Channels for the aluminum siding are
1/2" thick. So now we have 3 3/4" inches of stuff in a 5 inch deep hole.

Problem number one: the depth placement of the window. The window's
bottom plane is not precicely flat, but rather has two 3/8" wide 1/8" high
ridges almost at the front and back edges of the assembly. If we center
the window on the studs, it will fit stably there but the J channels won't
sit flush against the window and still be able to fit around the aluminum
siding because of the 1/2" wallboard in between. If however, we push the
window towards the outside so it sits flush against the J channels, the
front 3/8" ridge will be resting comfortably on the stud but the back
ridge will be sitting on the wallboard (which seems less stable).

Problem number two: the interior. Either way we place the window,
there's still the issue of what to do to cover over the width of the
drywall. There's not really room to add jambs around the top, bottom and
sides of the window because it already fits precisely into the rough stud
framing (roughly 1/4" on all sides). Add to that the issue of it being
right above the shower so we're trying to find a water-resistant solution.
Does anyone know of a plastic or vinyl L-shaped strip that can be caulked
to the window and the tub surround/wall?

Thanks for any brilliant insights,
~Gabriel



What you describe is normal. Generally a flat piece of 1x stock is added to
the inside after the window is installed pushed to the outside to bring the
opening flush to the inside edge of the drywall (actually 1/8" more is
better). Then the window can be framed on all four sides with your choice of
casing.

Your case is different because of location. A pricey option is having some
faux marble slabs made and fitted. Lower cost options can be field
engineered with a trip to the BORG. In the wood molding sections of most
you will find plastic/composite trim pieces. It is just a matter of putting
the right combination together. You might be able to use some of the cement
or composite based boards that are sold for fascia in lieu of the 1x board.
Then add pvc casing and caulk really well.

Did you actually cut out a portion of the surround? And is this going to be
a problem?

--
Colbyt
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