Martin H. Eastburn wrote:
You assume electric. Ok - does the stove top or oven element burn out ?
It is the same material - cal rod.
I didn't assume electric, I specifically mentioned
what would happen with electric and what would
happen with gas.
Of course electric elements in water heaters burn
out. Why do you think the manufacturer's
instructions always caution you to fill the tank
with water before turning on the power?
Many places have anti-back flow devices at the street so some dufus doesn't
set up a sprayer of some agent orange class of material to spray bugs or
such - and siphon it into the water system. If the dufus doesn't have his
own on the hose line, he will do himself/themselves in.
Certainly some do, what is your point? No
backflow preventers in my lines, In fact, I don't
believe I have ever lived in a house that had a
backflow preventer at the city, county, or
whatever water line.
Which then means another valve in the house must be open to take the
expansion.
How about gas ?
I think I covered that!
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH & Endowment Member
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member
http://lufkinced.com/
George E. Cawthon wrote:
Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Metal content: A water heater
This site has a downloadable video of an exploding water heater
shooting out of a hole in a field. Powered by a deliberately caused
boiling water eplosion:
http://www.waterheaterblast.com/
It was only a little 12 gallon job, but the tank landed 400 feet away.
It provides a good graphic demonstration for any fool who wonders why
water heaters have to have T&P valves on them and is tempted to
replace a dripping T&P valve with a pipe plug.
Imagine what the explosion of a six times larger 80 gallon water
heater would have looked like.
Enjoy,
Jeff
Isn't it wonderful that I live in a place where they don't put all
sorts of safety stuff in the lines. If my water heater overheats, the
pressure just equalizes with the incoming cold water line since there
are no restriction between the water tank to the street water supply.
First the water tank would boil and the pressure would push the water
back in the cold water line. When the boiling water level dropped to
the upper electrode, the electrode would burn out, possibly turning
the power off, but if not, the water would continue to boil until the
lower electrode was uncovered which at that time the electrode would
burn out and coldwater would fill the tank.
Of course if I had a gas heater (which I do now), it would just boil
dry and then the bottom would burn out and cold water would poor in.
I wouldn't notice anything until the water flooded.
I'll bet way more people are killed by lightening each year than by an
exploding water tank. Probably about 10,000 to 1 more by lightening.
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