eclipsme wrote:
I have never used shellac. I have used lacquer, varnish, polyurethane -
both oil-based and water, danish oil, tung oil, mineral oil, but never
shellac.

I have read that shellac will bring out the grain and depth of woods
like cherry and walnut when used as a first coat. Is this true? What is
the procedure? Can I/should I do this with cherry cabinets? Can I do it
with water-based poly as the top coats? Is this a good idea?

Thanks,
Harvey

Shellac is one of the easier finishes to apply. It brushes nicely and
dries quickly, reducing the amount of dust settling into and messing up
the finish. It's much easier than varnish in this respect. It dries
hard enough to sand overnight. I am looking at a chair I refinished in
shellac a LONG time ago. It still looks good. For a cherry cabinet I'd
give it three coats, sand between each coat. Finish off with a coat
of paste wax (Butcher's wax).
As others have mentioned, shellac is not water proof or alcohol
proof. It's rugged enough for ordinary furniture but I would not use it
for high wear things like kitchen cabinets, bar tops, or dining room
tables. The final coat of paste wax is needed to protect the shellac
from occasional spills. I have never mixed shellac from solid flakes.
I buy it ready-to-go and make a point of buying a new can if there is
any question about the age of that can sitting on the shelf from the
last project. I apply it just as it comes out of the can. If desired
you can thin it in alcohol (shellac thinner) which also cleans the
brush. Should you forget to clean the brush and it hardens, you can
still get the brush clean with alcohol. The alcohol will dissolve even
the hardened shellac.
Shellac gives an effect similar to varnish or lacquer except the
finish looks "softer" and the film seems thinner. I like the look of
shellac, however varnish and lacquer look very fine too.

David Starr