Tech Data wrote:
Golf wrote:
Ok, to cut it short, the ac line in goes straight to the primary of
that transformer. That alone energizes the windings to induce the 24
volt standby source which also goes to the relay, as well as the 12,9
and 5 volt lines. When the relay latches, THEN ac is routed to the
primary of the swithcing power supply that provides the B+ for the
horizontal circuit. Without the smaller standby transformer working,
NOTHING else is going to work. To prove or disprove, use an ohm meter
and measure resistance on the two secondary pins of that transformer. I

got a buck says they're open. Should read shorted or near shorted.
There may or may not be a thermal fuse inside the transformer but, the
way that's designed, you'll destroy it before you get to it. Best to
replace.

I finally got around to checking the transformer (after pulling from
chassis). There is no standby smaller transformer. Only the big one.
Anyhow, I checked the primary windings, and yes, they are open. The
secondary is good. After studying the circuit, I agree with your
statement above, except about the smaller standby transformer, since it
doesn't have one. There is no other transformer on the chassis except
for the flyback, which I assume to mean now this is a linear power
supply. There is however a (smaller filter transformer? that is first
off the main supply), but it's secondary is connected to the "cold"
side of the suppy. Nothing connected to the primary. It does check
good on primary/secondary. With this said, you have to be right about
the primary (big one) supplying the 24V standby voltage, because there
is physically no other way for this to be supplied after studying the
circuit. Checking the big T in circuit gave inconclusive results
because of the filter cap. Again, I'm a beginner. I will follow up post
if I repair, based on parts costs. Thanks a million Tech.

First, sorry for assuming it had a switching power supply. Don't have
the factory prints on my site and Sams doesn't cover it. This most
likely is SCR controlled but, nonetheless, will need the transformer.
What I've been doing on these since some of those are discontinued is,
buying a Radio Shack transformer and running jumpers to the pads where
the old transformer was and mounting, either with screws and nuts or
small wire ties, to the inside cabinet. The SKU for the one I use is
273-1512 for about 10bucks. I live in a rural area where everything has
to be shipped in and I find this cheaper and more expeditious. Just cut
the center tap lead short and hardwire. Works like a champ and you're
done. Good luck.

www.techdata-kicksass.net

Thanks. I will try this and post follow up.