On 5 Jul 2006 11:51:33 -0700, wrote:

I inherited a Sears Radial arm saw from my father who had passed away.
It looks like a great saw the only problem is that it wont start. I
have checked the plugs and power is going to the saw even to the
switch. But from that point nothing happens no sound, no motion,
nothing. Does anyone have any idea how much it would cost to fix it?
Or what I can do to test it myself and fix it. Thanks

If so, then the advice given by someone about the red thermal overload
switch is good--try that first. If that doesn't do it, then suspect
the switch, particularly since you have power to it (which assumes you
actually tested for voltage at the switch).

The motor is an induction motor which means it has a capacitor
somewhere on it. Check that. Also there should be a centrifugal switch
that opens after the motor starts and disengages the capacitor. Those
switches are notorious for getting sawdust in them and refusing to
close again rendering the motor unable to start the next time. Try
blowing it out.

Yes, Sears has used lockout keys in their switches, but they haven't
always been a yellow key in a red toggle. My RAS has a separate metal
key (just like for a warded lock) next to the switch, which is on the
motor assembly just above the handle (c. 1972 saw). Doesn't mean it's
not the culprit, just that you may need to look for something other
than the yellow key others have mentioned.

Replacing the motor is probably not feasible for a number of reasons.
#1 is that Emerson Tool (which made many of Sears' tools for years)
recalled their RASs (see http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com) and in the
case of certain qualified models, would send a retrofit blade guard
and new table (which doesn't help you a bit if yours qualfies, but
keep reading). If your model doesn't qualify, then they'll send you
$100 if you'll send the motor from your saw to them. That's it. You
get $100. I said all that to indicate that there is a possiblity that
you can't get a replacement motor from Sears.

Another reason is that the motor is in a completely proprietary mount
and it would be difficult to adapt a standard NEMA mount to it.
Moreover, the cost of a motor could be more than the saw is worth if
it worked.

If nothing mentioned in this thread works for you, your last resort
may be to have a motor shop take a look at it, which means you have to
make a decision as to how much time, effort, and money you're willing
to throw at this. And you're going to have to come to terms
emotionally with some of the choices.

Under the circumstances (and failing to fix it) I'd be inclined to put
an ad in the paper to sell it as is for $150, then take that money and
some more and buy one of the modern sliding compound miter saws which
will do 80% of what that RAS will do, and in less space. It won't have
quite the cross cut capacity and it won't rip, but in many respects is
a better choice, particularly in getting in and staying in alignment.

Good luck.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

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