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Posted to alt.building.construction,alt.home.repair
J. Clarke
 
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Default Counter-sinking lag bolts

James wrote:

MM has made a good point. Yes, I do know that the countersunk hole is
the top piece. And, I have also wondered if I should "force screw" the
lag through the first piece, or just drill a hole big enough to allow it
to
"slip" through, and then allow the 2nd piece of wood to do the holding.


Maybe that is what one poster meant when he said I would need THREE
bits.
One pilot, one "shank" and one for the countersink. I didn't pick up on
that when I first read it.

Do all of you concur, that the screw can go in rather loosely on the top
piece, and the tight fit should only be on the second piece ??

You guys are very helpful , and full of experience. I appreciate the tips
a lot, and I will use them.


You want the shank to be a tight fit, otherwise you don't get the full load
bearing capacity.

A "Forstner" bit http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=8311 cuts a
flat bottomed hole. A spade bit will also do that particular job, the
Forstner is a bit neater, but more difficult to use hand-held. An auger
bit will also do for the countersink but they're relatively hard to find
and expensive.

--James--

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MM said:


I may be missing something, but you know the countersink hole is
supposed to be in the top piece of wood, and the pilot hole is
supposed to be in the other piece of wood.

You need another drill yet, bigger than the pilot drill, to drill
through the top, the first piece of wood. There is no point in trying
to force yourself all the way through two pieces of wood.


--
--John
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(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)